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Trail Journal




Date: September 24 2000
Trail Day: 116
Miles Today: 13
Location: Near Limekiln Road
Section Mile: AT 1040
ECT Mile: 1735

Very overcast day. As soon as I got up it started raining. Normally, I would have packed up and started hiking. Not so today. Waited for the rain to let up which took quite a while. The whole day was overcast so I had no idea what the time was. I left the valley today - so a lot more ups and downs. Its not steep so I am thinking of dropping my poles - haven't decided yet.

Met another section hiker. He was quite demoralized because of the rain. Had great subs at a store quite close to the AT. Talked to Suriyan and Karen.

Another short day today. I may speed up tomorrow.



Date: September 25 2000
Trail Day: 117
Miles Today: 14
Location: Birch Run Shelter
Section Mile: AT 1054
ECT Mile: 1749

Full day of rain - cold rain. My hands were very numb. When I got to Birch Run shelter I could not use it for anything. One of the day hikers told me there was a storm passing through. I also think I need my thermal underwear and some rain gear. Will wait a few more days to decide.

The water in Pennsylvania seems very clean. Overall a very nice place to live - not too rugged, beautiful, not too congested. Could be one of the reasons Kumar stayed here for so long.

The terrain has become easy and the hiking poles are becoming a hindrance, so today I walked without them. I may send them back tomorrow. I am now on the tail end of a big group of south bounders. They are Springer, Still Searchin, T1, T2, Gecko, Moss, Chilli, Brisco, Firebreather, Fall Girl, Free Spirit, Looking Glass, Hypothetical and Bed Bug. I have not yet met the last four. I think Sweet Cicily is behind.

The leaves have now started falling. Its quite pretty in places.

Also crosed the half way point of the AT yesterday. Felt nothing.

Here's some more poetry.

Thru Love

In the not so distant past,
I met this pretty sobo lass.
Though the meeting was a fleeting,
My heart she left a bleeding.
Cupid's arrow sure did strike,
This poor shmuck with all its might.
In my dream she waltzes and smiles,
My heart skips a minute a mile.
I used to be a firm disbeliever,
But that was before I met her.
Now I know wise men are right,
"Lives an animal - Love at First Sight".




Date: September 26 2000
Trail Day: 118
Miles Today: 10
Location: Rite Spot Motel, Fayetville
Section Mile: AT 1064
ECT Mile: 1759

It rained heavily all of last night. It has also become extrmely cold. I have absolutely no warm clothes and desperately need them. Decided to get out of the trail at the first good road - US 30. Had pizza at a store almost on the trail. US 30 is a big road and getting rides was very difficult. Got to the motel, dumped most of my stuff there and got another ride to a WAL-MART. Bought winter clothes. The same people who gave me a ride to the store happened to be going back at the same time I was trying to head back. They gave me a ride again. Looks like the weather may actually become colder.



Date: September 27 2000
Trail Day: 119
Miles Today: 19
Location: Near Pen Mar Park
Section Mile: AT 1083
ECT Mile: 1778

Today was an absolutely gorgeous day - the very opposite of the last two days. It was still a little cold.

I have also now realized that if I drink more than 3 cans of beer I cannot sleep all night. So I started off today quite groggy. Had a very good breakfast at the Pelican's. Then tried to get a ride for a good hour. After a long time a guy pulls up and says, "Aren't you Spider ?". I was completely surprised. His name is Terry Pelton and he has been following my journal ! He asked me questions about my tarp and hiking poles that even people I've hiked with don't know about. Its quite interesting this asymmetry in knowledge - him knowing so much about me and me not even knowing his name. Nothing good or bad about it, just interesting. Anyway, to use an expression used by some nice people who gave me a ride in New Hampshire, "It was wicked cool."

Terry gave me a ride to the trail. The trail was nice and easy. Managed a 19 with a late start and another town stop - quite good. George was waiting for Sweet Cicily at one of the road crossings and gave me a ride to the town of South Mountain. At first the lady could not find my package from Vivek. Then she finally did. You won't believe how relieved I was. Mailed my hiking poles back to Vivek and another set of journal entries and roll to Suriyan. Bought groceries for 3 days. George then dropped me back at the trail head. Thanks George. It seems Cicely may do the 42 mile challenge where we do 42 miles in one day and go from Pennsylvania to Virginia via Maryland and W. Virginia. She's tough ! I am not even considering it.

Crossed into Maryland towards evening. Met Springer, Still Searchin and his Dad at the Pen-Mar park. Looks like Springer is having some problem. He looked weak. They will be taking a few days off. I hope things go well and they get back on the trail soon. They have done a good pace so far.

Walked a little further and set up tarp. Its supposed to get to 37 F tonight - good for testing out my cold weather gear.



Date: September 28 2000
Trail Day: 120
Miles Today: 22
Location: Dahlgren Campground
Section Mile: AT 1105
ECT Mile: 1800

I had not slept much the previous 2 nights, so last night I slept like a baby. The thermal underwear I wore kept me quite warm and cozy. I think I am now prepared for upto 20F. I may have to get additional clothes for the Smoky mountains where the elevations go higher than 6000 ft. Currently we are varying between 500 to 2500 ft. I have not crossed 3000 ft for several weeks.

Today's hike was a little harder. I was winded just climbing the trail to High Rock. It was also up and down quite a bit, although most were gentle. One section ran near electric lines. I saw wild grapes growing in the cleared area. At first I wasn't sure but once I ate them I had no doubts. I was very happy to find them. There's something about finding something good unexpectedly in the middle of a hike.

The companion - a book describing facilities on the trail, said there was an inn along the trail with a campground nearby. Decided to eat dinner there. It was a very fancy place. I sat down at the bar and asked the bartender, "How much is a domestic beer ?" He blinked at me and said, "How much ? Well, I'll have to look it up. Nobody's ever asked me that before." - such a fancy place. Reminded me of the snobbish salesman of an expensive store who says, "If you have to ask the price you can't afford it".

Anyway, the beer wasn't that expensive - 2.85$ but the food was. As it was expensive I did not order the full course (roughly 50$) but just the entree and stuffed myself with bread. After I was done I asked for the check and they said, "Your bill is taken care of. There are some people who are going to pick up your bill because you are a hiker". I was floored. I asked the waiter to lead me to them and thanked them. They were a very nice elderly couple.

On this journey, I have been helped by so many people that I'm quite over whelmed. Living in cities in our fast paced society we become a very cynical lot. We become pessimists and see everyone as bad people. It is only when you get out of the material trance that you can get a different perspective. And all of it has been for the better. I was also strongly reminded of my conversation with Mathew (the 19 year old homeless guy). He was talking about how his mother keeps warning him that there are a lot of bad people out there. "But Ma, I have not met a single, bad person" - he says.

Non hikers, and short distance hikers normally only see the physical aspects of a thru-hike. They are quite fascinated by the miles, the pain and the basic living. Thru hikers see it as mental as in the common phrase, "Thru-hiking is 80 % mental and 20 % physical". I firmly believe that it is mostly spiritual, although it has taken me now close to 4 months to get into this mode. I can almost feel the cleansing that I am going through.

Anyway, it was dark by the time I got out of the inn. Photon light in hand I made my way to the campground and set up tarp. Most campgrounds are designed for tents and not for tarps where you need two posts or trees about 8 feet apart to tie the main string to. I had to rig a make shift tarp by tying one end to the picnic table and another to the grill. It was slanted and broad but it did the trick.



Date: September 29 2000
Trail Day: 121
Miles Today: 20
Location: Near Loudon Heights
Section Mile: AT 1125
ECT Mile: 1820

Fairly cold morning. You would need a jacket if not hiking. After an initial climb it was almost all flat. The miles just flew by. Met Gecko and Moss along the trail. There were also more local and weekend hikers because it was Friday. Plucked an apple that was very sweet - wonderful !

I was hoping to stay at the Hostel just to the north of Harpers Ferry, but they were booked up. I was quite disappointed. Continued into Harpers Ferry. This is a very important point for AT hikers - probably right next to Mt. Katahdin and Mt. Springer. It is roughly the midpoint of the trail and most flip-floppers begin/end here.

Went to a pub. The waiter was an ex-hiker called Badger. He had been hiking till about 2 weeks ago and just decided to live here - amazing. He had been hiking with Razmataz, Torn and Cinderella whom I had met in Duncannon.

Stopped by at the ATC head-quarters. They take photos of all thru-hikers and section hikers. I am # 76 south bound. I think I was 130 or so leaving Katahdin. All places to stay in Harpers Ferry are expensive so I decided to move on. I will thus be passing a big group of hikers - Cicely, Gecko, Moss, Chilly, Brisco, EZE, British Bug, Looking Glass, Hypothetical, Firebreather, Fall Girl, Springer and Still Searchin. I had almost become part of their tribe.

Sleeping in the open tonight and hoping it doesn't rain.

Here's a poem on thru-hiking and thru-hikers.

Seekers

The trail with life simple and austere,
Pulls us from every sphere.
White, black, yellow and brown,
We trace our trees the world around.
Electricians, Plumbers and volunteers,
Teachers, Firemen and Engineers.
Enter the wilderness with trail names,
There's Go Slo and a Freight train.
Gypsy, Pixie and a Pack rat,
Two brothers - Captain and Acrobat.


But despite these differences and more,
We all share an inner core.
We're reaching out with wide open arms,
For something - we know not its form.
With feeble hands we grope the dark,
To catch a glimpse of life's spark.


You can see it in our eyes all glazed,
That the long, hard path is a pilgrimage.
You can hear it in our voice and speech,
That each of us is here to seek.




Date: September 30 2000
Trail Day: 122
Miles Today: 17
Location: Bear's Den Hostel
Section Mile: AT 1142
ECT Mile: 1837

Stuff kept falling all night - acorns, leafs and twigs. I realized that during fall its not just the leaves that fall but also twigs. They make quite a racket at night. Since I was sleeping with no tarp I did not want anything to fall into my eyes.

The first portion of the hike was fairly easy but towards the end there were a lot of ups and downs and I slowed down quite a bit. Also met and talked to a nice couple - the lady was from Quebec and knew about the IAT. They asked me a bunch of questions about the trail.

There were also different fruits along the trail. I sampled one of each new variety. Some taste quite good, some others are so bitter and strong that they leave a strong after taste. Stopped by at David Lesser Shelter. Took a shot. Got to Bear's Den Hostel. Its a wonderful place. The shower was just heavenly. Ate 4 burritoes and a Ben & Jerry's icecream. It would be a very nice place for a O if it had shops and such nearby.

Today I entered Virginia fully (the trail ran along the W. Virginia/Virginia border for about 15 miles). Virginia is my 13th state and a very long one. I think its about 600 miles, so I will be in it for about a month and a half.







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