Date: June 10 2000
Trail Day: 10
Miles Today: 11.7
Location: Porte de l'Enfer
Section Mile: IAT 143.3
ECT Mile: 143.3
Fairly easy day of hiking. The day was partly cloudy but very windy.
It also has been a little colder as I am now in the mountains. I am now
hiking route 14 to bypass Mt. Jacques Cartier. It is a forest road.
I saw a moose or a caribou early in the day today. This area is known
for caribou though I do not know what they look like. The place I am in now is more of a
picnic spot where I have been permitted to camp overnight by Bermans
Drouin, the director of Reserve of Faunique Des Chic-Chocs - Thank you
very much. It is beside the river Saint Anne Nord Est. It is almost a
white water.
The park ranger stopped by a while ago and checked my permit. He says there
is lots of snow all the way to Mt. Logan and that the snow is firm in the
morning but weak late in the day. Very few people out here yet.
This peak is actually quite popular but as it is very early in the season
almost no one is here. I saw only three vehicles during the entire day.
Tomorrow to La Gite where I pick up my mail-drop of food. My pants have
started to tear near the inner thigh area. I will have to sew it up
at some point. Also forgot to mention - I weighed myself about three
days ago. Came in at 195 pounds. About 5 of it should be water loss.
So it could be 200 pounds. Still a loss of about 9 pounds over 6 days.
Amazing. Today also marked the longest I have been hiking both in number
of days and miles. Before this it was a ten day hike with Kumar over
the Christmas break on the Florida trail. It was for 130 miles and we
went from Port Mayaca to Desert Ranch.
Date: June 11 2000
Trail Day: 11
Miles Today: 2.5
Location: Le Faucon Refuge - foot of Mt. Albert
Section Mile: IAT 145.8
ECT Mile: 145.8
A light day of hiking. I was done by noon. Did about 4 km of non trail
walks to find the shelter, foods, laundry etc. I was expecting to find the
package I had mailed from Montreal but the front desk at La Gite said they
had not received anything. I was evaluating my alternatives and having a beer
at the bar when one of the other staff said that he knew of my package and
brought it out. I was extremely relieved. Also had an interesting conversation with the waitress. I had lunch there. I have heard
of the expression "Chicken that melts in your mouth", but this is the
first time I have experienced it. I had a shower, did my laundry, mended
my pants and mailed another set of journal entries to Suriyan. I had to sneak in and out of their bathrooms because I am not a registered guest. The people at the reception desk were however quite helpful. A very full day. Then I found my "refuge". Its a hut that I had booked in advance.
When people think of their dream houses they might see a beach, ten
bedrooms, four garages, pool etc. I see a rustic comfortable cabin - like
this one. I need a place like this to live in. A bed in one corner to
sleep in, a computer desk in another, and a small kitchen in yet another
- a common bathroom should suffice.
I then got a ride from the guy who runs the place back to La Gite - very
friendly guy, another trail angel. The dinner was fancy, I was not. I was
in my shorts, T-shirt, hiking boots with no sox. Probably the best non-
spicy food I have had. The service was excellent. Used knives and spoons
would disappear and new ones would appear as if by magic. I had a glass
of water I drank deeply from that never got empty. I was about to see the
bottom of the bread basket and voila a new one. I am quite certain I
broke numerous etiquette rules with knives and what not. There were nine
of them on my table at one point. The place was expensive (lunch was
reasonable) and cost me 50 Canadian dollars all included.
I also saw a rabbit outside that would not run when approached. I took a
picture of it. In the evening I saw several of them around. Also the animal
I saw two days ago was a moose. Caribou look more deerish. I saw their stuffed heads (ugh !!) at the hotel.
Tomorrow starts an 8 to 10 day stretch where there will be no stores,
civilization, etc. It will be back in the snow. Let's see how it goes.
Signing off from this wonderful cabin.
Date: June 12 2000
Trail Day: 12
Miles Today: 0
Location: Between Le Pluvier and Mt. Albert
Section Mile: IAT 145.8
ECT Mile: 145.8
Got up early and started hiking. The snow is supposed to be firm early in
the morning. Stopped by La Gite for breakfast - they were not open. It was
6 am. (Its bright here at about 4:30). The first couple of hours were good.
It was uphill all the way but no snow. Came to the shelter - La Serpentine.
Saw a good looking woman cleaning the place. Her name is Ivy. She and
her husband David are here to perform research on the caribou. Caribou are
peaceful, curious creatures who will on occasion follow man. They spend most
of their time on ridge tops but were now down in the trees for calving.
Ivy said they were missing a lot of them because of this. She also told
me of trail conditions further up and to follow their footsteps in the
snow they had made the previous day. I now entered the closed segment
of the trail. Things were good for another half an hour. Then the trail
seemed to run into a cul-de-sac about a mile wide that had sharp mountains
on three of its side. The trail went straight up one of these sides and it was covered
with snow. I went up about 5 feet and came back sliding down. I could see
Ivy and David's footprints but it was dangerous for me with a heavy backpack.
They are certainly courageous folks.
I then bushwhacked along the northern face to try and find an alternate
route with little or no snow. I scouted without my backpack and found one
on the very eastern corner, went back and got my backpack and got back up.
I then bushwhacked about a mile back to the trail. The top of Mt. Albert is
flat with no trees and has no snow. Progress was fast. Then the trail
started decending into snow fills. I decided to hike along the top
and to find the trail a little further on. A little later I decended and
found snow all around me. I could not find the trail. I hiked back and
forth for about 1.5 hours very frustrated. The snow was starting to
collapse about every 10th step. I then decided to go back to the top to find
the trail. Suddenly I heard voices and found two young guys about 1/2
a mile away. They are Luc and Vince. They were on a weeks vacation and
were following my footsteps and were therefore also lost. If you have to
be lost under trying conditions it is better to be with company. I was
glad I found them. The three of us then decided to continue hiking along
the top of Mt. Albert in hopes of seeing the lake towards which we were
headed. We couldn't see it. We then decided to pass through a valley and
back on top of a hill along which the trail was supposed to run. This
turned out to be a miserable affair. It was now much later in the day
and the snow would collapse about every fourth step. It was much worse
than my hike from Mt. St. Pierre to La Galene but I wasn't so
demoralised as I had company. Our shoes and sox were thoroughly wet and ice
cold. A lot of ice had entered my shoes and my feet were getting numb.
It was now starting to get dark. We reached a stream and made a guess as
to where we were on the map. The trail was about a km north. We tried hiking
some more but gave up when it was almost dark. We found a little area
enough to set up one tent. I set up tent there. Luc and Vince put there's
up in the snow. They had thermal pads. Luc started a fire. It was
invigorating. We cooked supper, ate and crawled into the comfort of our
sleeping bags. My feet started to thaw and it was painful for about an
hour. My feet were ice cold. They warmed up as the night progressed and
I slept well. It was an end to a very hard day.
Lost in Mt. Albert
Date: June 13 2000
Trail Day: 13
Miles Today: 0
Location: Cap Bon Ami Campground
Section Mile: IAT 145.8
ECT Mile: 145.8
We decided to return as the snow was too difficult. We continued to where
the trail was supposed to be but could not find it. I think we actually
crossed the trail but failed to see it as it was covered with snow.
Progress continued to be difficult. The night had been warm and the snow
was bad. I went down to my hips on several occasions and had to come
crawling out. We reached the top of the hill which was sort of bald
and hence had no snow. We now had one hill to cross to get to the top
of Mount Albert. The hill turned out to be a little easier as there were
sections with no snow. We made relatively good time and started climbing
Mt. Albert. We then found the trail and headed back down. We decided to
stay at La Serpentive where Ivy and David were staying. We pitched our tents
outside and cooked supper. I talked to them about their research. They do
this every year and do four trips a year each lasting 10 days - I envy
them. David teaches at the University of Maine but lives across the
border in New Brunswick. They are married and are very good people.
Had a good warm sleep.
Trickling stream falls of
melting snow.
Date: June 14 2000
Trail Day: 14
Miles Today: 15.6
Location: La Pluvier
Section Mile: IAT 161.4
ECT Mile: 161.4
I walked about 30 km although only about 25 km were trail miles, the other
5 were completing the back track. Came down Mt. Albert to La Gite.
Ivy and David
were also leaving that day. I decided to hike the forest roads to Lake
Cascapedia with its shelter called La Pluvier. I started walking along Rt. 299.
David and Ivy stopped by in their car. Ivy misses her little dog. We talked
a little. I got some information on what ski trails are. I may have to use
some of them instead of hiking trails. Some ski trails actually run on top
of frozen lakes and bogs and are thus not good for hiking. We said our
good byes and I continued on.
I looked at the map and it looked as though I could cut out about 4 km if I
waded a river and walked a ski trail to Rte. 11. I found a suitable
place called Grand Fosse where the river is very broad and hence not
that deep. I surveyed the river and found a route that would only get me
thigh deep in the water. Got another stick and started crossing. I ended
getting up to my hip in water. I was going too deep in some points. I could
see craw fish becoming agitated due to my thrusting the stick. Crossed the
river with no problem. Squeezed out the water from my socks, dried my feet
(my sleeping bag managed to stay dry) and continued along the ski trail.
It was well maintained and good. Reached Rt. 11 and continued towards Lac
Cascapedia.
Got to La Pluvier and met Marcel and Paul. Its a small world. They work
at Pratt & Whitney, Montreal. (I worked at Pratt & Whitney, Florida
before the hike). They are here on a week's vacation to scope out the
area to return on a ski vacation in winter. They had gone cross country
at Mines Madeline that day. They are a couple of fun outdoor guys.
They gave me beer, food and white gas - Thanks, some more trail angels.
Date: June 15 2000
Trail Day: 15
Miles Today: 12.4
Location: Le Huard
Section Mile: IAT 173.8
ECT Mile: 173.8
Had some coffee in the morning, thanks to Marcel and Paul. I took a
photograph of them and me. They were posing with their skies. Last evening
I had talked to the caretaker of the shelter and he had said that two
people were trying to hike from Lake Thibault (to which I am now headed)
and should be arriving any time if successful. He said he would let me know
if they did. I did not see him that night. Today morning I talked to him
on the way out and confirmed that they had indeed not arrived. He had also
met the hiker the folks at Mt. Saint Pierre had met in 1985. It looks like
he was a black botanist. He was also big and tall and it appeared as though
he was doing it in sections over a period of 3 years. The care taker also
told me that the bird that I had encountered back in Park Forillion (and
that I had seen several time since) was a spruce grouse. It is now nesting
time and they are thus somewhat territorial. There is also a ruffed grouse which I
may also have encountered.
I started hiking Rte. 11 towards Lake Thibault with its shelter called
La Huard. Half way into the hike a car with 2 guys stopped to chat. They were
the hikers attempting to cross to Lake Cascapedia. They told me they had also
got lost and had to return due to snow. I think the trails here should be
blazed just like other places, so that it is easier to find the trail.
Here the reliance is on the actual tread with few sign posts. Once it
gets covered with snow it is very difficult to find it. Even in good
weather there seems to be other treaded trails that seem to cross it and
can be quite confusing. In short - the trail needs to be blazed. The guys
gave me some bottled water and GORP (mixture of Granola, Oats, Raisin,
Peanuts. However the term is now generically used for any trail food).
A car wth 2 rude people also stopped to ask for directions. I have
not mentioned this so far. But this is pure white territory. (Unfortunately,
I know decent number of people who would like to live in just such a
world). Most are quite comfortable with other races or at least attempt to
be so. However there is a significant section of the people who are
uncomfortable and the hostility shows right through. They have also been
so isolated that I can tell them I am an American Indian, Asian Indian,
Egyptian, Kenyan, Arab and it would make no difference. Most people
here have just heard vaguely of India and think it is somewhere near
Egypt. Anyway, just wanted to pass on the social element along.
I got to Le Huard and decided to explore the trail from there. About
4 kms into it I found a stream that was crossable with effort. That
combined with the probability of finding snow further on made me turn
back. This entire section is supposed to be closed due to snow.
I thus ended up doing an aditional 8 km of non trail mileage. I was
eager to get back to Le Huard before dark and slipped and stumbled
in several places. This is a shelter with 16 beds. No one is here, so I
have the place to myself. I started a fire, cooked, ate and went to bed.
The first half hour was a medley of my childhood memories with Mom and
Dad. I could hear my Dad's voice almost continuously. It was very
strange. After that I went downstairs to check on what sounded like
light foot steps - nothing. If you have an over active imagination
and you are alone, the place has the potential to drive you nuts -
think of an axe murderer horror movie in a camp in the wilderness and
you have the setting. After that I fell asleep.
Date: June 16 2000
Trail Day: 16
Miles Today: 13.7
Location: Le Nictale
Section Mile: IAT 187.5
ECT Mile: 187.5
Continued hiking along Rte 11. It is now a very rugged road. I am entering
the farthest corner of the park. The hiking trail actually joins this road
for the last 6 km to Mt. Logan. In that section it is a dirt road, hiking
trail, skiing trail and a bicycle trail combined. Encountered only patches of snow
till La Roulotte (a shelter near Lake des Iles). This is where the hiking trail
joins the road. The road then did a sharp turn to west. I was dumbfounded
by what I saw. It was covered fully with snow. No one had been on it - there
were no foot prints or tire treads. The suddenness with which so much snow
started was amazing. I hiked for a short while then decided to rest for a
while. Ate something and collected my thoughts. If the road was unpassable
I have to back track several days as there are no other alternate roads. Got
worried, started hiking again. The snow was firm and hiking was possible
although tiring. It was almost all snow till I reached the top of the hill -
about 1 km. Then it started to break up.The snow is melting and has formed
small streams on the side of the road. This section has no snow. I walked
on those places whenever I could. My water proof boots paid for themselves
today. About another 2 km of, on and off snow and I reached Le Nictale (a
shelter). I decided to leave my back pack and explore with just a fanny pack
with essential survival stuff.
The way the maps show it, there should be a T to this road to the left
followed by the trail also to the left, followed by the peak of Mt. Logan.
I could also see recent foot prints (perhaps 1-2 days old). This was a
good sign as the people had accessed the shelter from the other side.
That means in the worst case I can take the road and not have to back track
- excellent news. I found the T for the road but not the trail continuation.
I hiked to the peak of Mt. Logan. They have a hut and a radio tower there.
I checked both of them out and took a photo. Near the peak I saw the IAT
signs and they seemed to head north of the peak whereas the map shows to head
south well before the peak. I explored the trail and it looks doable. I
returned to La Nictale and looked at the map more closely. It looks like
the map for the Reserve of Matane (which comes just after Mt. Logan) is
badly screwed up. I have made an estimate based on the peaks I know the trail
touches. I will just have to follow the signs and hope for the best. I
will also have get an early start to get some firm snow. This has the
potential for a frustrating hike, but currently I am feeling good and
should be able to plough through a day of bad snow. After that the general
trail altitude drops a little and I may be done with snow. I've got
my fingers crossed.
Note of my walking stick. I had picked up one on my first day at Cap Bon
Ami. It was somewhat slender and flexible. It broke in two when I was trying
to get on top of Mt. Albert. At that place there were no other trees -
only shrubs. It is quite unsafe to climb that area without a stick. I did
what I could with the broken one. Once I was on top there were posts used
for markers. I took one of them. Then on the way back I found an
abandoned ski pole. I took it and left the marker. I have now hiked several
days with the ski pole and like it. I think it will last for a good while.
I have also started stinking. You know they say you cannot smell yourself
because you get used to it. Not true - thru hikers stink. When
I reached La Pluvier, on three different occasions people spontaneously
told me that the camp had a free shower !!
Today was a good day. I feel good. I hope from tomorrow I am on the trail
instead of the road. I have also been sleeping on the lower bunks in all the
shelters. Tonight I will try the upper bunk. Good night.
A View
