Date: September 5 2000
Trail Day: 97
Miles Today: 20
Location: Top of Shenandoah Mtn.
Section Mile: AT 744
ECT Mile: 1436
Writing this from the top of Shenandoah Mountain. I don't know if this
is the summit but sure seems like it. I will be sleeping on top here -
going to be my first. The view is spectacular - not the breath taking of
the Whites but beautiful in its own way. The sun has set and a half moon
is out. Its pinkish where the sun has set and bluish on the other side of
the horizon. Overhead is a sky of dark blue, grey and orange almost all mixed
together. Another horizon shows long streaks of clouds. Its almost all
forest and hills looking from here. Civilization shows itself not
blatantly and vulgarly as it normally does but more as a hint that it exists.
You can see the electric lines stretch into the distance. In one corner there
is a cluster of town lights, quite subdued. There is a flicker of light
every once in a while from the towers here and there. And you can hear
faintly but not see the turnpike. It is somewhat cold and windy. I am in
my thermal underwear. It is very beautiful and serene. It cannot be
captured by photographs, paintings or words.
Last night I did have the shelter all to myself - no late arrivals. I have
started the "no map" section and so dont know what to expect - sometimes its
a climb, somtimes a lake. About 10 road crossings today. Had lunch at a
Deli on Rt 52. I did not know if it was to the left or right and ended up
doing an extra 2 mile roadwalk. Food was good and I could not finish it.
This was a surprise.
Because I had no maps I missed a shelter. Usually, I know where the side trail
is, if the shelter is not on the trail itself. Today I started looking
for it after I was about a mile past it. All in all a fairly easy, lethargic
day of hiking. Saw only 2 hikers to the end - no one else. The north
bounder run is over. School's started and there are only a few south bounders.
So the trail is actually starting to get a little lonely. I am also avoiding
a lot of towns and hiker places due to a philosophical problem that I will write
about some time down the line. Now, time to eat a sub and watch the stars.
Date: September 6 2000
Trail Day: 98
Miles Today: 19
Location: Near Hemlock Springs Camp
Section Mile: AT 763
ECT Mile: 1455
The moon set quickly last night. I watched the stars quite a bit. Lots of
planes over the area - probably going into or out of N. York city. Another
day of numerous road crossings. Got to Rte 9. There's supposed to be a
convenience store here which is now closed. Walked further to a place called
Stadium. Its a sport bar. I was very low on cash and luckily the place had
an ATM. Withdrew some money and had lunch. Turned out quite expensive.
Got back to the trail and hiked 3 miles or so and decided to stop.
There's still day light left but I dont feel like hiking. I've also got
a slight headache. This area is crawling with deer. They are quite unafraid
and curious. I took a
photo
of one that was close by.
Date: September 7 2000
Trail Day: 99
Miles Today: 4
Location: Highland Falls
Section Mile: AT 767
ECT Mile: 1459
I was totally out of food. So I started walking to the nearest town. On the
way I just decided to stay there. Did laundry, showered and ate a lot.
Date: September 8 2000
Trail Day: 100
Miles Today: 15
Location: Near Lemon Squeeze
Section Mile: AT 782
ECT Mile: 1474
My hundredth day on the trail ! At this point I have completed about a third
of the AT and the ECT (Cap Gaspe to Key West). I thought of taking a O day
today. I called the front desk at the motel but they told me they were all
sold out due to a football game nearby. So I decided to continue hiking.
Mailed a set of journal entries to Suriyan, had breakfast and bought groceries
for 3 days. Originally I had planned on carrying almost no food and to buy
it at the different road crossings. That, I found is highly unpredictable
as many of the stores are now out of business. I got a ride quickly. Highland
Falls is the biggest town I have seen so far in my hike. For some
reason most people don't look at you while talking. They avoid eye contact
and seem to have the life sucked out of them. We are missing something
big and important in our modern culture.
Today's hike started out harder than one would expect considering the terrain
before this. It was up or down almost constantly. Progress was slow. Bear
mountain had a decent view. You can faintly see New York city.
The trail later on started running ridges and my speed picked up. Met
Whiskey Tim. His dog was so tired that she curled up and went to sleep
during our conversation. He is a section hiker and has completed about
1600 miles. His father, in his 80's is sick. I hope he gets better.
I was hoping to make it to the Lemon Squeezer but could not. I am less
than half a mile from it though. It is a pair of large rocks between
which the trail runs. Its a tight fit, hence the name.
Cooking rice with onion gravy and sardines. Stove working OK, mosquitoes
killing me.
Date: September 9 2000
Trail Day: 101
Miles Today: 23
Location: Near Long House Road
Section Mile: AT 805
ECT Mile: 1497
The Lemon Squeezer was neat. The gap between the rock is not even vertical.
You have to bend sideways as you walk. I had some difficulty because of the
side pockets of my backpack. Took a
photo.
The beginning was very up and down and progress was very slow. Towards
evening it flattened out and things were smoother. Met several very
friendly locals. One high school kid, another group of 3, day hiking beer
in hand. Water is very scarce now and I was grateful for some container
of water left by a trail angel called Tuxedo angel. Thanks.
Tried to make it to Wawayonde shelter but could not. It had also been
raining today - quite welcome as it has been dry. Set up the full tarp
because of the rain and slept soundly. I also think I was in another
deer's territory.
Date: September 10 2000
Trail Day: 102
Miles Today: 23
Location: Near Gemmer Road
Section Mile: AT 828
ECT Mile: 1520
It rained last night but I had an extremely comfortable and dry night.
In the morning I found my way back to the trail. Things looked different.
I couldn't tell which way to head. I tried one, decided it was wrong,
headed in the opposite direction, reversed once again and reversed again.
This is how people go nuts in forests. They get lost and wander randomly.
Today's trail first had Wawayonda mountain, a sharp drop and then a lot
of flats crossing numerous roads. There was also several miles of road walk.
Stopped by at Heaven Hill Farm which was almost on the AT. Ate a pint of
icecream. Also bought some groceries. Met Blue Skies with possibly her
younger brother. He appeared very unhappy. She is pretty. It is interesting -
the last 3 female southbounders that I've met have been pretty - Waterfall,
Mama Hotpants and Blue Skies. I know its not just a case of me beign too long
in the woods because of the 20 or so women I saw at the store. I thought
19 of them were ugly.
Met Sweep's parents going up Mt Wawayonda. Sweep is a north bounder with girl
friend Starlite. I have not met either of them. They are now near the Bigelows.
Also met a big group of youths towards the end of the day. One of the guys
gave me turkey-jerky - very tasty.
Some of the sections had horrible mosquitoes - worst bugs since Canada.
Date: September 11 2000
Trail Day: 103
Miles Today: 21
Location: Near Culvers Gap
Section Mile: AT 849
ECT Mile: 1541
Today's hike climbed a mountain and stopped on the ridge most of the time.
Started off slow but by the end I was on a roll. The trail went by the High
monument. Called Vikas and left a message. We will try and meet some time.
Most of the shelters in New York and New Jersey are slightly away from the
trail. Mahipacong shelter was an exception - made a journal entry. There
are a group of 4 south bounders 1 day ahead of me. I think I should be able
to catch them soon.
Saw several wild turkeys - first on this hike. Got to Sunrise mountain and
started talking to a gentleman by the name of
Bob
. He told me that the bakery
that I was planning on getting supplies from was closed. He offered to give me
a ride if he saw me at US 302. I continued hiking and sure enough he was
hiking the section near 302. He gave me a ride to the grocery store. Picked
food for one day and dinner for tonight - sub and chicken. We then went to a
bar and he bought me several beers. I also got 2 cans to go with my dinner.
We talked about the trail. He knows the NJ section of the trail very well.
He's also been reading several journals from trailplace. I was surprised.
He told me of a good place to tarp on the trail and dropped me off.
This is easily the best trail magic for me. Thanks much Bob.
I continued up the trail in some darkness and set up camp. The chicken
was horrible, the sub excellent and the beer is always good. Very good
view of the valley below. Also a full moon. The mosquitoes however are
back.
