Date: September 11 2000
Trail Day: 103
Miles Today: 21
Location: Near Culvers Gap
Section Mile: AT 849
ECT Mile: 1541
Today's hike climbed a mountain and stopped on the ridge most of the time.
Started off slow but by the end I was on a roll. The trail went by the High
monument. Called Vikas and left a message. We will try and meet some time.
Most of the shelters in New York and New Jersey are slightly away from the
trail. Mahipacong shelter was an exception - made a journal entry. There
are a group of 4 south bounders 1 day ahead of me. I think I should be able
to catch them soon.
Saw several wild turkeys - first on this hike. Got to Sunrise mountain and
started talking to a gentleman by the name of
Bob
. He told me that the bakery
that I was planning on getting supplies from was closed. He offered to give me
a ride if he saw me at US 302. I continued hiking and sure enough he was
hiking the section near 302. He gave me a ride to the grocery store. Picked
food for one day and dinner for tonight - sub and chicken. We then went to a
bar and he bought me several beers. I also got 2 cans to go with my dinner.
We talked about the trail. He knows the NJ section of the trail very well.
He's also been reading several journals from trailplace. I was surprised.
He told me of a good place to tarp on the trail and dropped me off.
This is easily the best trail magic for me. Thanks much Bob.
I continued up the trail in some darkness and set up camp. The chicken
was horrible, the sub excellent and the beer is always good. Very good
view of the valley below. Also a full moon. The mosquitoes however are
back.
Date: September 12 2000
Trail Day: 104
Miles Today: 17
Location: Mohican Outdoor Center
Section Mile: AT 866
ECT Mile: 1558
I could not sleep at all last night. I think it was the mosquitoes. Started
off just after sun rise. It was overcast the whole day although it never
rained. It was also extremely dry. I had no water and the first water source
I came to was 10 miles away. I was also not feeling well due to lack of sleep.
The day went by in a daze.
Luckily the terrain was fairly easy and the trail used old logging roads a
lot. I was quite surprised at my pace. Saw no one on the trail today. We have
also moved to the more rural part of New Jersey - cannot see many houses
and roads from the ridge top. People are also friendlier and less stuck
up. I think New York near the Stadium bar area was the worst. - very yuppy and
self absorbed people. New York is also easily the dirtiest state on the AT so
far. Even the roads are littered more.
The AT overall is extremely clean. I was quite surprised at first because it
has a large number of hikers and it takes only a few to litter. I am finding
that the outdoor ethics is quite strong on the AT. There are also a few hikers
who actually pick up trash found on the trail. Kudos to them. Just as it takes
a few bad apples to screw up a good thing, it takes only a few very good ones
to make it whole again. This ethic needs to be spread out to other trails
and to society in general. All other trails I have hiked, including the IAT
have a lot of trash on them.
Well the hike was fairly easy. I was looking forward to a spring listed
on the data book but never saw a sign to it and missed it. The trails are
getting quite rocky and building up to the much talked about
Pennsylvania rocks. This is about 40 miles of trail that is covered with
rocks and makes hiking an ordeal. Cowpie, whom I met in Hanover almost had
tears in her eyes when she recounted the hike through the rocks. Buckeye
Bob whith whom I went up Katahdin had called it the toughest 40 miles
on the AT. Rainbow 6 said "the rocks are slightly difficult, but if you think
of every stone you'll go nuts. Just go". Falafel - "You know they talk about
the rocks a lot but I just went and did the rocks. Its hyped up". There are
2 hikers at the cabin here who said its not that difficult. I had heard that
it is 40 miles of non-stop rock. They say its not true. Anyway, I will
find out tomorrow. Tomorrow I begin Pennsylvania and will also pick up
my maps at Delaware Water Gap. I don't like hiking without maps.
Tried calling Vivek but his line was busy. Fell asleep quite easily.
Date: September 13 2000
Trail Day: 105
Miles Today: 17
Location: Kirkbridge Shelter
Section Mile: AT 883
ECT Mile: 1575
I had a good night's sleep last night. Woke up completely refreshed. Hiked
about 10 miles into the Delaware Water Gap. Took a half hour break at Sawfish
pond. It is the southern most glacier lake on the AT. I could see little
fish and spent my time watching them. It was very relaxing. I met a trail
maintainer on the way. He told me Mr. Clean was not too far ahead. Mr. Clean
is an oriental so bo (south bounder) who started Jan 1 at Katahdin. He is
taking his time and is now quite famous on the trail. Hope to meet him.
Crossed the Delaware river into Pennsylvania - my tenth state. It has been
Quebec, New Brunswick, Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts,
Connecticut, New york, New Jersey, Pennsylvania. Delaware Water Gap is a
very small decaying town. Had lunch and bought grocery for 4 days. Also
picked up the maps for PA. I am so happy to have maps. Michelle, my friend
from Louisville had also sent me cookies. They are delicious and arrived
perfectly. Thanks Michelle. She also wrote that Debbie Woodcock, another
friend, is pregnant. Debbie is an interesting woman and has spunk - I admire
her. On the sad side Frank Hiertzman passed away due to cancer complications -
quite sad. He had helped me buy my present car.
On the way back to the trail I stopped by at the hostel. No one was there.
I signed the register and left the NY/NJ maps in the hiker box. I hope its
of use to someone else. Delaware Water Gap is also the lowest point in the AT
at 250 ft. The climb up Mt. Minsi was steady and steep in places. The mountains
have now almost ended. There are a few gently rolling hills in the distance
but the real mountains are all gone.
Decided to stop at Kirkbridge shelter, a run down place.
Date: September 14 2000
Trail Day: 106
Miles Today: 23
Location: Near Little Gap
Section Mile: AT 906
ECT Mile: 1598
A very unincidental day today. Met 4 hikers. Got water at Wind Gap. This
area is very dry. Saw a journal entry by Mr. Clean stating he was very sick -
vomitting, loss of concentration, joint aches etc. Doesn't sound good.
If he takes more than a week off, I will definitely miss him. One of the
hikers said she saw me somewhere in Maine/New Hampshire - a very long
section.
I am very confused about the Pennsylvania rocks. Am I in it or is it yet to
come ? I don't know. I have also been playing a game to keep the average at
20 miles per day since Suriyan left. I keep a score of the surplus or
deficit from 20 every day. So, say its at +5 today, that means I have got
5 miles over the 20 average. If I were to to do 15 today the average would
become exactly 20. At its best it was +9. Yesterday it was at -8 and today
at -5. I want to get to 0 and stop playing. It has become tiresome. On the
bright side I have covered 400 miles in the past 20 days - quite fast.
Well I am a little short of water tonight with almost no hopes of getting
any more till at about 10 AM tomorrow. I am also sleeping in the open, so
I hope it doesn't rain.
Date: September 15 2000
Trail Day: 107
Miles Today: 1
Location: Near Allentown shelter
Section Mile: AT 907
ECT Mile: 1599
Late last night it started raining. I used the light that Playfoot gave me in
Kent and set up my tarp. The light is quite bright. I had sent back my thermal
underwear and flash light to Vivek in Delaware Water Gap. I have been hoping
to meet other so bo's but I keep missing them when they go into towns. I've
already missed Matt. Its interesting - during the planning phases thru-hikers
talk about wanting solitude and how to avoid "the crowds". The reality
turns out to be very different. They spend a lot of time in towns.
Walked over
"The Knife Edge" - there's nothing knife edgy about it. The view
however was spectacular - took shots :
scenic 1
scenic 2.
The 'Pennsylvania rocks' are way over
blown. Rainbow 6's advice which sounded naive at the time, is accurate -
"Dont worry about every rock - just go". Here's a little rhyme that I came
up with :
Pennsylvania rocks,
What a crock,
Honey, Roots was right,
Never listen to hype.
Date: September 16 2000
Trail Day: 108
Miles Today: 22
Location: Pavillion, Port Clinton
Section Mile: AT 929
ECT Mile: 1621
Got up in the morning and saw a guy heading north. He is Sweet Cicily's husband
slack packing. He said I was about 500 yards from the shelter but that it was
packed. Ate a good breakfast and started hiking. Met Doc Marten and
Straight A at the shelter. They are doing a section hike from New York
to Georgia. Straight A is of Indian descent - born and brought up here.
We call them ABCD's - American born confused Desi's (Desi means - fellow
counrty man). They call us FOB's (Fresh off the boats). A similar dynamic
to North bounder vs South bounder. The level of hostility is also about the
same. I am not saying Straight A was hostile - she was in fact a very nice
person - an ABCD exception :-)
The miles just flew by today. Met Fire Breather, Fall Girl and Sweet Cicily on
the way. It rained a little towards the end. Got to Port Clinton - a very
small town with almost nothing. Did laundry, got take out food at the Port
Clinton hotel. This hotel used to be hiker friendly but with a change in
ownership things have changed. Now in the pavillion ready to sleep.
Date: September 17 2000
Trail Day: 109
Miles Today: 24
Location: 501 Shelter
Section Mile: AT 953
ECT Mile: 1645
Last night one of the locals came by at about 3:00 AM and asked us if we wanted
to smoke some pot. We were sound asleep when he came in. The group hung around
for quite a while and I could not get much sleep. I woke up quite late
(maybe 10:00 AM). Fall Girl and Fire Breather were gone. I tried to get
breakfast in town but there was no place. Started hiking - wasn't feeling very
good. I decided to take a O in Shartlesville. Decided to hike to Cross-Mountain
, which runs to Shartlesville. I was looking for a black top road, which it
wasn't and completely missed it. Talked with a nice day hiking couple about my
options to bail out further down. None of those sounded very good. So, I
decided to hike on to Duncannon, 3 days, about 70 miles away. Composed a poem :
Destination Duncannon
Gather round ye young and grown,
And listen to me bitch and moan.
Twenty five days, on the run,
Now its ceasing to be fun.
Covered, five hundred miles,
Thought of it, makes me smile.
But now my body is so worn,
My socks - they are all torn.
My tarp belongs to the landfill,
My sleeping bag leaks holofill.
I need a shower real soon,
I smell like a dead racoon.
My clothes - they need a wash and spin,
To be of any use again.
My morale is now shot to hell,
My spirit is way down as well.
I walk with an unsmiling face,
Gone is my former pace.
Boy, I need a zero day,
To fully recuperate.
Three days mileage, sixty nine and some,
Hello Duncannon, here I come.
Anyway, thanks ye young and grown,
For listening to me moan and groan.
