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Trail Journal




Date: September 12 2000
Trail Day: 104
Miles Today: 17
Location: Mohican Outdoor Center
Section Mile: AT 866
ECT Mile: 1558

I could not sleep at all last night. I think it was the mosquitoes. Started off just after sun rise. It was overcast the whole day although it never rained. It was also extremely dry. I had no water and the first water source I came to was 10 miles away. I was also not feeling well due to lack of sleep. The day went by in a daze.

Luckily the terrain was fairly easy and the trail used old logging roads a lot. I was quite surprised at my pace. Saw no one on the trail today. We have also moved to the more rural part of New Jersey - cannot see many houses and roads from the ridge top. People are also friendlier and less stuck up. I think New York near the Stadium bar area was the worst. - very yuppy and self absorbed people. New York is also easily the dirtiest state on the AT so far. Even the roads are littered more.

The AT overall is extremely clean. I was quite surprised at first because it has a large number of hikers and it takes only a few to litter. I am finding that the outdoor ethics is quite strong on the AT. There are also a few hikers who actually pick up trash found on the trail. Kudos to them. Just as it takes a few bad apples to screw up a good thing, it takes only a few very good ones to make it whole again. This ethic needs to be spread out to other trails and to society in general. All other trails I have hiked, including the IAT have a lot of trash on them.

Well the hike was fairly easy. I was looking forward to a spring listed on the data book but never saw a sign to it and missed it. The trails are getting quite rocky and building up to the much talked about Pennsylvania rocks. This is about 40 miles of trail that is covered with rocks and makes hiking an ordeal. Cowpie, whom I met in Hanover almost had tears in her eyes when she recounted the hike through the rocks. Buckeye Bob whith whom I went up Katahdin had called it the toughest 40 miles on the AT. Rainbow 6 said "the rocks are slightly difficult, but if you think of every stone you'll go nuts. Just go". Falafel - "You know they talk about the rocks a lot but I just went and did the rocks. Its hyped up". There are 2 hikers at the cabin here who said its not that difficult. I had heard that it is 40 miles of non-stop rock. They say its not true. Anyway, I will find out tomorrow. Tomorrow I begin Pennsylvania and will also pick up my maps at Delaware Water Gap. I don't like hiking without maps.

Tried calling Vivek but his line was busy. Fell asleep quite easily.



Date: September 13 2000
Trail Day: 105
Miles Today: 17
Location: Kirkbridge Shelter
Section Mile: AT 883
ECT Mile: 1575

I had a good night's sleep last night. Woke up completely refreshed. Hiked about 10 miles into the Delaware Water Gap. Took a half hour break at Sawfish pond. It is the southern most glacier lake on the AT. I could see little fish and spent my time watching them. It was very relaxing. I met a trail maintainer on the way. He told me Mr. Clean was not too far ahead. Mr. Clean is an oriental so bo (south bounder) who started Jan 1 at Katahdin. He is taking his time and is now quite famous on the trail. Hope to meet him.

Crossed the Delaware river into Pennsylvania - my tenth state. It has been Quebec, New Brunswick, Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, New york, New Jersey, Pennsylvania. Delaware Water Gap is a very small decaying town. Had lunch and bought grocery for 4 days. Also picked up the maps for PA. I am so happy to have maps. Michelle, my friend from Louisville had also sent me cookies. They are delicious and arrived perfectly. Thanks Michelle. She also wrote that Debbie Woodcock, another friend, is pregnant. Debbie is an interesting woman and has spunk - I admire her. On the sad side Frank Hiertzman passed away due to cancer complications - quite sad. He had helped me buy my present car.

On the way back to the trail I stopped by at the hostel. No one was there. I signed the register and left the NY/NJ maps in the hiker box. I hope its of use to someone else. Delaware Water Gap is also the lowest point in the AT at 250 ft. The climb up Mt. Minsi was steady and steep in places. The mountains have now almost ended. There are a few gently rolling hills in the distance but the real mountains are all gone. Decided to stop at Kirkbridge shelter, a run down place.



Date: September 14 2000
Trail Day: 106
Miles Today: 23
Location: Near Little Gap
Section Mile: AT 906
ECT Mile: 1598

A very unincidental day today. Met 4 hikers. Got water at Wind Gap. This area is very dry. Saw a journal entry by Mr. Clean stating he was very sick - vomitting, loss of concentration, joint aches etc. Doesn't sound good. If he takes more than a week off, I will definitely miss him. One of the hikers said she saw me somewhere in Maine/New Hampshire - a very long section.

I am very confused about the Pennsylvania rocks. Am I in it or is it yet to come ? I don't know. I have also been playing a game to keep the average at 20 miles per day since Suriyan left. I keep a score of the surplus or deficit from 20 every day. So, say its at +5 today, that means I have got 5 miles over the 20 average. If I were to to do 15 today the average would become exactly 20. At its best it was +9. Yesterday it was at -8 and today at -5. I want to get to 0 and stop playing. It has become tiresome. On the bright side I have covered 400 miles in the past 20 days - quite fast.

Well I am a little short of water tonight with almost no hopes of getting any more till at about 10 AM tomorrow. I am also sleeping in the open, so I hope it doesn't rain.



Date: September 15 2000
Trail Day: 107
Miles Today: 1
Location: Near Allentown shelter
Section Mile: AT 907
ECT Mile: 1599

Late last night it started raining. I used the light that Playfoot gave me in Kent and set up my tarp. The light is quite bright. I had sent back my thermal underwear and flash light to Vivek in Delaware Water Gap. I have been hoping to meet other so bo's but I keep missing them when they go into towns. I've already missed Matt. Its interesting - during the planning phases thru-hikers talk about wanting solitude and how to avoid "the crowds". The reality turns out to be very different. They spend a lot of time in towns.

Walked over "The Knife Edge" - there's nothing knife edgy about it. The view however was spectacular - took shots : scenic 1 scenic 2. The 'Pennsylvania rocks' are way over blown. Rainbow 6's advice which sounded naive at the time, is accurate - "Dont worry about every rock - just go". Here's a little rhyme that I came up with :

Pennsylvania rocks,
What a crock,
Honey, Roots was right,
Never listen to hype.


Stopped at a restaurant and B+B almost on the trail. Excellent food. The B+B portion, they told me was 95$ - I almost choked. It was getting dark by the time I left the B+B. Filled up from the faucet outside and took 3 tomatoes from the garden. Started hiking fast so I could make it to the shelter before dark. It followed a logging road, so it was easy. My map fell out of my pocket somewhere and I was quite angry at myself. Another 100 or so miles to go before I have a map again. Finally it got too dark and I decided to sleep in the open. Ate the tomatoes - delicious and juicy.



Date: September 16 2000
Trail Day: 108
Miles Today: 22
Location: Pavillion, Port Clinton
Section Mile: AT 929
ECT Mile: 1621

Got up in the morning and saw a guy heading north. He is Sweet Cicily's husband slack packing. He said I was about 500 yards from the shelter but that it was packed. Ate a good breakfast and started hiking. Met Doc Marten and Straight A at the shelter. They are doing a section hike from New York to Georgia. Straight A is of Indian descent - born and brought up here. We call them ABCD's - American born confused Desi's (Desi means - fellow counrty man). They call us FOB's (Fresh off the boats). A similar dynamic to North bounder vs South bounder. The level of hostility is also about the same. I am not saying Straight A was hostile - she was in fact a very nice person - an ABCD exception :-)

The miles just flew by today. Met Fire Breather, Fall Girl and Sweet Cicily on the way. It rained a little towards the end. Got to Port Clinton - a very small town with almost nothing. Did laundry, got take out food at the Port Clinton hotel. This hotel used to be hiker friendly but with a change in ownership things have changed. Now in the pavillion ready to sleep.



Date: September 17 2000
Trail Day: 109
Miles Today: 24
Location: 501 Shelter
Section Mile: AT 953
ECT Mile: 1645

Last night one of the locals came by at about 3:00 AM and asked us if we wanted to smoke some pot. We were sound asleep when he came in. The group hung around for quite a while and I could not get much sleep. I woke up quite late (maybe 10:00 AM). Fall Girl and Fire Breather were gone. I tried to get breakfast in town but there was no place. Started hiking - wasn't feeling very good. I decided to take a O in Shartlesville. Decided to hike to Cross-Mountain , which runs to Shartlesville. I was looking for a black top road, which it wasn't and completely missed it. Talked with a nice day hiking couple about my options to bail out further down. None of those sounded very good. So, I decided to hike on to Duncannon, 3 days, about 70 miles away. Composed a poem :

Destination Duncannon

Gather round ye young and grown,
And listen to me bitch and moan.

Twenty five days, on the run,
Now its ceasing to be fun.
Covered, five hundred miles,
Thought of it, makes me smile.
But now my body is so worn,
My socks - they are all torn.
My tarp belongs to the landfill,
My sleeping bag leaks holofill.
I need a shower real soon,
I smell like a dead racoon.
My clothes - they need a wash and spin,
To be of any use again.
My morale is now shot to hell,
My spirit is way down as well.
I walk with an unsmiling face,
Gone is my former pace.
Boy, I need a zero day,
To fully recuperate.
Three days mileage, sixty nine and some,
Hello Duncannon, here I come.

Anyway, thanks ye young and grown,
For listening to me moan and groan.


Got to the 501 shelter, just as it was getting dark. Fire Breather, Fall Girl, Sweet Cicily with husband George and Chilli and Brisco were there. They were eating pizza and asked me to join in. It was good. The shelter is a covered shelter (Most others have one side open). There is also a sky light. A very nice place.



Date: September 18 2000
Trail Day: 110
Miles Today: 24
Location: Stony Mountain
Section Mile: AT 977
ECT Mile: 1672

Got up quite early today. Took a photo of all. Turns out Firebreather, Fallgirl and Sweet Cicily were responsible for the birch beer I found at Kirkbridge shelter a few days ago.

Trail Angels

Hiked to an AT shelter,
With absolutely no water.
Saw a little sparkling spring,
A sigh of relief, it did bring.

What do I find floating there ?
A can of cold birch beer.
Sat down, drank with relish,
Best drink I must admit.
Fire breather, Fall girl, Sweet Cicily,
Thanks to you, all the three.


Made good progress today. Saw George at PA 443 waiting for Cicily. Got some water from him. The trail passed through some old town which existed in the 1850's - quite amazing. The area is also a popular destination and as expected, camping sites looked more like pig sties. Tarping again and hoping there is no rain. Tomorrow Duncannon and a O. I am somewhat burnt out now.

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