Date: September 24 2000
Trail Day: 116
Miles Today: 13
Location: Near Limekiln Road
Section Mile: AT 1040
ECT Mile: 1735
Very overcast day. As soon as I got up it started raining. Normally, I would
have packed up and started hiking. Not so today. Waited for the rain to let
up which took quite a while. The whole day was overcast so I had no
idea what the time was. I left the valley today - so a lot more ups and
downs. Its not steep so I am thinking of dropping my poles - haven't decided
yet.
Met another section hiker. He was quite demoralized because of the rain.
Had great subs at a store quite close to the AT. Talked to Suriyan and Karen.
Another short day today. I may speed up tomorrow.
Date: September 25 2000
Trail Day: 117
Miles Today: 14
Location: Birch Run Shelter
Section Mile: AT 1054
ECT Mile: 1749
Full day of rain - cold rain. My hands were very numb. When I got to Birch
Run shelter I could not use it for anything. One of the day hikers told me
there was a storm passing through. I also think I need my thermal
underwear and some rain gear. Will wait a few more days to decide.
The water in Pennsylvania seems very clean. Overall a very nice place to
live - not too rugged, beautiful, not too congested. Could be one of
the reasons Kumar stayed here for so long.
The terrain has become easy and the hiking poles are becoming a hindrance,
so today I walked without them. I may send them back tomorrow. I am now
on the tail end of a big group of south bounders. They are Springer,
Still Searchin, T1, T2, Gecko, Moss, Chilli, Brisco, Firebreather,
Fall Girl, Free Spirit, Looking Glass, Hypothetical and Bed Bug. I have
not yet met the last four. I think Sweet Cicily is behind.
The leaves have now started falling. Its quite pretty in places.
Also crosed the half way point of the AT yesterday. Felt nothing.
Here's some more poetry.
Thru Love
In the not so distant past,
I met this pretty sobo lass.
Though the meeting was a fleeting,
My heart she left a bleeding.
Cupid's arrow sure did strike,
This poor shmuck with all its might.
In my dream she waltzes and smiles,
My heart skips a minute a mile.
I used to be a firm disbeliever,
But that was before I met her.
Now I know wise men are right,
"Lives an animal - Love at First Sight".
Date: September 26 2000
Trail Day: 118
Miles Today: 10
Location: Rite Spot Motel, Fayetville
Section Mile: AT 1064
ECT Mile: 1759
It rained heavily all of last night. It has also become extrmely cold. I have
absolutely no warm clothes and desperately need them. Decided to get out of
the trail at the first good road - US 30. Had pizza at a store almost on the
trail. US 30 is a big road and getting rides was very difficult. Got to the
motel, dumped most of my stuff there and got another ride to a WAL-MART.
Bought winter clothes. The same people who gave me a ride to the store
happened to be going back at the same time I was trying to head back.
They gave me a ride again. Looks like the weather may actually become colder.
Date: September 27 2000
Trail Day: 119
Miles Today: 19
Location: Near Pen Mar Park
Section Mile: AT 1083
ECT Mile: 1778
Today was an absolutely gorgeous day - the very opposite of the last two
days. It was still a little cold.
I have also now realized that if I drink more than 3 cans of beer I cannot
sleep all night. So I started off today quite groggy. Had a very good
breakfast at the Pelican's. Then tried to get a ride for a good hour.
After a long time a guy pulls up and says, "Aren't you Spider ?". I was
completely surprised. His name is Terry Pelton and he has been following
my journal ! He asked me questions about my tarp and hiking poles that even
people I've hiked with don't know about. Its quite interesting this asymmetry
in knowledge - him knowing so much about me and me not even knowing his
name. Nothing good or bad about it, just interesting. Anyway, to use an
expression used by some nice people who gave me a ride in New Hampshire,
"It was wicked cool."
Terry gave me a ride to the trail. The trail was nice and easy. Managed a
19 with a late start and another town stop - quite good. George was waiting
for Sweet Cicily at one of the road crossings and gave me a ride to the
town of South Mountain. At first the lady could not find my package from
Vivek. Then she finally did. You won't believe how relieved I was. Mailed my
hiking poles back to Vivek and another set of journal entries and roll to
Suriyan. Bought groceries for 3 days. George then dropped me back at the
trail head. Thanks George. It seems Cicely may do the 42 mile challenge
where we do 42 miles in one day and go from Pennsylvania to Virginia
via Maryland and W. Virginia. She's tough ! I am not even considering it.
Crossed
into Maryland towards evening. Met Springer, Still Searchin and
his Dad at the Pen-Mar park. Looks like Springer is having some problem.
He looked weak. They will be taking a few days off. I hope things go well
and they get back on the trail soon. They have done a good pace so far.
Walked a little further and set up tarp. Its supposed to get to 37 F tonight
- good for testing out my cold weather gear.
Date: September 28 2000
Trail Day: 120
Miles Today: 22
Location: Dahlgren Campground
Section Mile: AT 1105
ECT Mile: 1800
I had not slept much the previous 2 nights, so last night I slept like a baby.
The thermal underwear I wore kept me quite warm and cozy. I think I am now
prepared for upto 20F. I may have to get additional clothes for the Smoky
mountains where the elevations go higher than 6000 ft. Currently we are
varying between 500 to 2500 ft. I have not crossed 3000 ft for several weeks.
Today's hike was a little harder. I was winded just climbing the trail
to High Rock. It was also up and down quite a bit, although most were gentle.
One section ran near electric lines. I saw wild grapes growing in the
cleared area. At first I wasn't sure but once I ate them I had no doubts.
I was very happy to find them. There's something about finding something
good unexpectedly in the middle of a hike.
The companion - a book describing facilities on the trail, said there was
an inn along the trail with a campground nearby. Decided to eat dinner
there. It was a very fancy place. I sat down at the bar and asked the
bartender, "How much is a domestic beer ?" He blinked at me and said,
"How much ? Well, I'll have to look it up. Nobody's ever asked me that
before." - such a fancy place. Reminded me of the snobbish salesman of
an expensive store who says, "If you have to ask the price you can't
afford it".
Anyway, the beer wasn't that expensive - 2.85$ but the food was. As it was
expensive I did not order the full course (roughly 50$) but just the entree
and stuffed myself with bread. After I was done I asked for the check and
they said, "Your bill is taken care of. There are some people who are
going to pick up your bill because you are a hiker". I was floored. I asked the
waiter to lead me to them and thanked them. They were a very nice elderly
couple.
On this journey, I have been helped by so many people that I'm quite over
whelmed. Living in cities in our fast paced society we become a very cynical
lot. We become pessimists and see everyone as bad people. It is only when
you get out of the material trance that you can get a different perspective.
And all of it has been for the better. I was also strongly reminded of my
conversation with Mathew (the 19 year old homeless guy). He was talking
about how his mother keeps warning him that there are a lot of bad people
out there. "But Ma, I have not met a single, bad person" - he says.
Non hikers, and short distance hikers normally only see the physical aspects
of a thru-hike. They are quite fascinated by the miles, the pain and the
basic living. Thru hikers see it as mental as in the common phrase,
"Thru-hiking is 80 % mental and 20 % physical". I firmly believe that
it is mostly spiritual, although it has taken me now close to 4 months
to get into this mode. I can almost feel the cleansing that I am going
through.
Anyway, it was dark by the time I got out of the inn. Photon light in hand
I made my way to the campground and set up tarp. Most campgrounds are
designed for tents and not for tarps where you need two posts or trees about 8 feet apart
to tie the main string to. I had to rig a make shift tarp by tying one end
to the picnic table and another to the grill. It was slanted and broad
but it did the trick.
Date: September 29 2000
Trail Day: 121
Miles Today: 20
Location: Near Loudon Heights
Section Mile: AT 1125
ECT Mile: 1820
Fairly cold morning. You would need a jacket if not hiking. After an
initial climb it was almost all flat. The miles just flew by. Met Gecko
and Moss along the trail. There were also more local and weekend hikers
because it was Friday. Plucked an apple that was very sweet - wonderful !
I was hoping to stay at the Hostel just to the north of Harpers Ferry,
but they were booked up. I was quite disappointed. Continued into
Harpers Ferry. This is a very important point for AT hikers - probably
right next to Mt. Katahdin and Mt. Springer. It is roughly the midpoint
of the trail and most flip-floppers begin/end here.
Went to a pub. The waiter was an ex-hiker called Badger. He had been
hiking till about 2 weeks ago and just decided to live here - amazing.
He had been hiking with Razmataz, Torn and Cinderella whom I had met in
Duncannon.
Stopped by at the ATC head-quarters. They take photos of all thru-hikers and
section hikers. I am # 76 south bound. I think I was 130 or so leaving
Katahdin. All places to stay in Harpers Ferry are expensive so I decided to
move on. I will thus be passing a big group of hikers - Cicely, Gecko, Moss,
Chilly, Brisco, EZE, British Bug, Looking Glass, Hypothetical, Firebreather,
Fall Girl, Springer and Still Searchin. I had almost become part of their
tribe.
Sleeping in the open tonight and hoping it doesn't rain.
Here's a poem on thru-hiking and thru-hikers.
Seekers
The trail with life simple and austere,
Pulls us from every sphere.
White, black, yellow and brown,
We trace our trees the world around.
Electricians, Plumbers and volunteers,
Teachers, Firemen and Engineers.
Enter the wilderness with trail names,
There's Go Slo and a Freight train.
Gypsy, Pixie and a Pack rat,
Two brothers - Captain and Acrobat.
But despite these differences and more,
We all share an inner core.
We're reaching out with wide open arms,
For something - we know not its form.
With feeble hands we grope the dark,
To catch a glimpse of life's spark.
You can see it in our eyes all glazed,
That the long, hard path is a pilgrimage.
You can hear it in our voice and speech,
That each of us is here to seek.
Date: September 30 2000
Trail Day: 122
Miles Today: 17
Location: Bear's Den Hostel
Section Mile: AT 1142
ECT Mile: 1837
Stuff kept falling all night - acorns, leafs and twigs. I realized that
during fall its not just the leaves that fall but also twigs. They make
quite a racket at night. Since I was sleeping with no tarp I did not want
anything to fall into my eyes.
The first portion of the hike was fairly easy but towards the end there were
a lot of ups and downs and I slowed down quite a bit. Also met and talked
to a nice couple - the lady was from Quebec and knew about the IAT. They
asked me a bunch of questions about the trail.
There were also different fruits along the trail. I sampled one of each
new variety. Some taste quite good, some others are so bitter and strong
that they leave a strong after taste. Stopped by at David Lesser Shelter.
Took a
shot.
Got to Bear's Den Hostel. Its a wonderful place. The shower
was just heavenly. Ate 4 burritoes and a Ben & Jerry's icecream. It would
be a very nice place for a O if it had shops and such nearby.
Today I entered Virginia fully (the trail ran along the W. Virginia/Virginia
border for about 15 miles). Virginia is my 13th state and a very long one. I
think its about 600 miles, so I will be in it for about a month and a
half.
