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Trail Journal




Date: October 22 2000
Trail Day: 144
Miles Today: 22
Location: Trout Creek
Section Mile: AT 1436
ECT Mile: 2134

Last night I was sleeping in a deer's territory - the familiar snorting and stamping. I have actually not encountered it in a while. Had a good, warm sleep to make up for last night. I think I am also psychologically prepared for winter now. Saw John the Baptist sleeping 20 yards from where I was. Also left a note for T-Pot at one of the shelters asking her to catch up to me or send me an email if she wanted to hike to Key West. She has been toying with the idea. I think it will be great to hike with her.

Mc Afee knob had a decent view. When I got there, there was still a mist. Met H-Monster, EZE, Andrew and 10-4 heading north. Looks like they are just doing a day hike of Mc Afee knob.

I had originally planned on going to the Home Place in Catawba. They have an all you can eat for 9.00 $. I've heard lots of good things about it, but I have been spending so much time in towns and near civilization that I am not that interested in restaurants now.

The climb up Dragon's Tooth was hard. They had metal bars driven in rocks for climbing. I think I saw them last in New Hampshire. There were numerous day hikers. It felt good to blow past them with a full pack !

I was quite worm out after the climb though and the last 3-4 miles seemed quite long. Now cooking dinner with Suriyan's new stove. The lighting process is definitely a pain.



Date: October 23 2000
Trail Day: 145
Miles Today: 21
Location: Laurel Creek Shelter
Section Mile: AT 1457
ECT Mile: 2156

Started climbing to Audie Murphy monument. It went fairly quickly. The trail then descended to a very good valley. Then a climb back to Sinking Creek Mountain. The ridge walk was quite rugged in portions. You walk on the portions covered with leaves or the rocks. The leaves slip and are quite hard on the knees. The rocks are slanted every which way. To make things interesting there are thorny bushes on either side. I saw 2 goats there. They came up to me and started licking my legs. I think they are after the salt. I gave them some salt I had. One of the goats started chewing on my pack strap and left it covered with slime. I got a shot of the 2 goats.

Then came a descent and a nice walk along some pastures. It got quite dark by the end and I thought I had missed the shelter. There were 2 section hikers there.

Water is becoming quite a problem now. I have been without water for several times in the past few days. It has also been very dry. We also need some rain to start the leaf decomposition process. The trails are just covered with them.

Looks like Firebreather, Fall Girl, George and Sweet Cicily are one day ahead. I will try and catch up with them now. I dont think I will be seeing the group behind again. They were fun.

Today

Saw fish in Trout Creek
Slipped on Brush Mountain Peak
Got licked by goats
Pleasant walk through meadows




Date: October 24 2000
Trail Day: 146
Miles Today: 23
Location: Dickinson Gap
Section Mile: AT 1480
ECT Mile: 2179

A climb, flat, down then another climb, down and another climb. That was the profile today. The valleys are now very rich. They have several streams in them and have vegetation with very thick leaves. Its very beautiful.

There were sodas in Wav Spur shelter organized by Blue Skies whom I met back in New York or so. Some of the thru hikers had gone to the ALDHA meeting held about 2 weeks ago. We thus know who is how far behind. Attending the meeting seemed to have no point for me. Why hear people talk about the trail when you are actually doing it ? Besides, in public forums like this there is always a positive spin on the trail. The sweat, dirt, bites and weariness are never mentioned. Very unbalanced. Any way, I did not hear any great things about it.

Today was also a day with bad map profiles. There is a section in Stony Creek valley that the map shows as flat. It is however a mini roller coaster. There was also another section that ran parallel to a Salt Sulphur Turnpike. The road had taken up the ridge top which is fairly even. The trail ran on the side of the mountain and was very rocky. Leaves covering rock can be very dangerous. Slipped several times. Also had to go slow and my patience was tested.

Met 4 section hikers. We are certainly in the Bible belt. I keep getting "May the Lord Bless You" from these idiots. There are also numerous Bibles in all of the shelter. How these religious wackos can assume we need to be saved without knowing the first thing about us is beyond me.

Got a drizzle during the day. I am also eating Luncheon meat made by Kroger's. It is extremely salty and I end up drinking all my water and still end up with a parched throat at night. Will not be buying them any more. Fish seems to be the way to go.

Tomorrow Pearisburg to pick up a mail drop.



Date: October 25 2000
Trail Day: 147
Miles Today: 17
Location: Angel's Rest
Section Mile: AT 1497
ECT Mile: 2196

Today was an overcast day. I was in high spirits. The trail ran the ridge and then descended into Pearisburg. It was beautiful.

Morning Walk

A sweet melody on the lips,
Pack's snug on the hips,
Feel the early morning nip,
Far away a lonely farm.

Breathing in the mountain air,
A chipmunk chatters over there,
Bliss and beauty everywhere,
A little bird sings his song.

Feeling nature's harmony,
Wild apples are sweet honey,
Trees magestic so many,
Beauty shows in every form.

The trail entrances with her charm,
An overwhelming sense of calm,
Body, spirit, arm in arm,
Nature is soul's soothing balm.


Got to Pearisburg. Had lunch, did grocery shopping. Picked up mail and called Suriyan and Vivek. I was debating whether to stay in Pearisburg or not and decided not to. I have been in towns too much. Decided to buy some beer and subs and carry it up the mountain. It was a 2 mile climb and I thought it would never end. Had dinner and set up the tarp. It may rain tonight.



Date: October 26 2000
Trail Day: 148
Miles Today: 22
Location: VA 606 Campground
Section Mile: AT 1519
ECT Mile: 2218

Today's profile looked quite easy, but I had a hard time completing it. I am getting some minor knee pain because of all the slips on rocks. I decided to go a little easy and rest more.

Looks like Firebreather and Fall Girl are ahead while Sweet Cicily and George are behind because of a O in Pearisburg. Also Lil Debbie and Candyman. two sobo's were in Pearisburg. So I have passed them without meeting. Met a day hiker - Old Geezer, who I have met before in New Hampshire. I remembered him quite well. We talked for a while. He was the only person I met on the trail today.

Also last night some animal was prowling near my tarp for food. It did not take anything but tore up the sub wrappers.

The leaves are now almost all off of the trees. It looks quite barren and gray. But on the up side, we get more sun.

Decided to stop at the store on VA 606 and get groceries and call Vivek. They let you camp and take a hot shower for 2 $ ! It's funny - I have to take a shower and get back into the same dirty clothes. Its been at least 10 days since I have done my laundry. The store has pizza, beer, ice cream etc - a hiker's paradise. I finished off a medium loaded pizza and a pint of ice cream.

The local people now have a distinct southern twang.

Looking forward to a deep sleep tonight.



Date: October 27 2000
Trail Day: 149
Miles Today: 17
Location: Kimberling Creek
Section Mile: AT 1536
ECT Mile: 2235

Had a good sleep last night. Also dreamt that someone was walking by while I was asleep and was trying to surprise me. I decided to surprise him/her instead by shouting, but found I could not move or speak. It was odd. It was as though my body was paralyzed. I also tried to will myself to wake up but could not. I realized that the states of consciousness during sleep and otherwise are extremely different and one does not gradually go from one to the other. As a corollary I think that deep personal changes can be made best suddenly - almost a shock.

Had breakfast at the store. This is a very convenient place. There was a lot of fog. My knees were hurting all night. I think the heavier pack (due to winter clothes) and longer climbs are taking their toll. I decided to use sticks. The result was amazing. They made a big difference. I will have to ask Vivek to send me my Leki poles.

Today's profile also looked easy but turned out quite rough. Here the climbs are never over 500 ft but they are climbing or dropping all the time. Decided to do a slightly shorter day as there was no water for 6-7 miles up the trail. I was also quite tired.

Slept early. I have to do 2, 23 mile sections to get into Atkins day after tomorrow night. If not I will be out of food. The terrain looks rougher now, so it may not be possible. Let's see.



Date: October 28 2000
Trail Day: 150
Miles Today: 24
Location: Chestnut Knob Shelter
Section Mile: AT 1560
ECT Mile: 2259

4-5 of today's miles were along Wolf creek. The trail has not followed creeks since Maine. It was a good change. I have now passed Firebreather and Fall Girl. They had gone into Bland to meet Fall Girl's parents. I had passed Sweet Cicily and George in Pearisburg.

The mountains are now getting bigger as we move towards the Smokies. I think doing more than 20 miles is not a good idea anymore. The body may hold for a couple of days but then collapses. Yesterday was quite bad for me. I am also reading other sobo's going thru a similar experience now. I think its better to do a slightly lower mileage but consistently. 20 may be a good target, although I will have to do a 23 or so today to get into Atkins as I am out of food.

I barely made it into the shelter in time. Ate rice and sardines with chilli. It was excellent. Also met 2 guys from Kentucky. One of them is a transportation planner for Lexington. He knows of The Coradino Group (where I used to work) and Ken Kaltenback and Dave Ripple. Small world !

Water continues to be a problem. I picked up another plastic soda bottle on a street to use as a water bottle. Thank God for road side trash !







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