Date: November 12 2000
Trail Day: 165
Miles Today: 0
Location: Uncle Johnny's Hostel, Erwin
Section Mile: AT 1775
ECT Mile: 2474
Decided to take a 0 day today. This is a very comfortable place. Rode a
bicycle into the town of Erwin for breakfast. When I got back Firebreather and
Fall Girl were at the hostel. They have to be at Hot Springs by a certain date
and therefore would be moving on. They hitched a ride into Erwin for
groceries. Andrew and Richard showed up some time later.
Grinder made chilli for all the hikers. I helped him chop the onions and
green peppers. Spent the rest of the day eating and watching TV and talking.
Also talked to Kumar, Suriyan and Vivek.
At Uncle Johny's Hostel
Date: November 13 2000
Trail Day: 166
Miles Today: 20
Location: Near Low Gap
Section Mile: AT 1795
ECT Mile: 2494
Had a good chat with Andrew last night. Got a slightly late start. Most of the
day was a climb, so the progress was slow. Started drizzling in the middle.
Got into my "water resistant but not water proof" jacket. Depending on the sun
and the terrain it can get warm or very cold. You have to keep playing with
the clothes all the time.
Passed Richard along the way. The climb upto Big Bald seemed to go on forever.
Met Sheperd doing a north hike of this section. I had passed him somewhere in
Connecticut and had met him again briefly near Catawba. He is always hiking
with women - have to envy that.
Decided to hike past Bald Mountain shelter in order to get into Hot Springs on
15th night. Dave Farley, a friend at work has invited me to his cabin
somewhere in Georgia. I am trying to make it to Fontana Dam (another 150
miles) by Thanks Giving. I dont know if its possible. I have not yet talked to
Dave although we have exchanged e-mails. Hiking has now become quite weather
sensitive. I cannot get started till the sun is well up and things have
slightly warmed up. I think its going to be this cold till I clear the
Appalachian range - another 800 miles or so.
I had to hike about an hour in the dark to find water. Set up my tarp and
cooked dinner. Its going to rain tonight.
Date: November 14 2000
Trail Day: 167
Miles Today: 22
Location: Jerry Cabin Shelter
Section Mile: AT 1817
ECT Mile: 2516
It rained last night but I had stayed dry. Got a late start. Hiked about 6
miles to Sam's gap where they are working on a road. I talked with an 83 year
old tobacco farmer for a while. A fairly uneventful day. Saw 2 hunting dogs
that seemed to be lost. One of them at the shelter was in bad shape. She could
not even walk much. The hunters are quite careless with their dogs. I have
seen and heard of numerous such lost dogs.
Had to hike about 2 hours in the dark as I had no water. It is fairly easy to
lose the trail in some of these balds at night. Saw the valley all lit up with
lights - it was magnificent.
Tried starting a fire at the shelter with no success. My skills here are quite
poor. I have to make it a point to learn it for my own safety. Cooked dinner in
the dark and settled in for the night. The shelter catches the wind and is
therefore quite cold.
Date: November 15 2000
Trail Day: 168
Miles Today: 15
Location: Spring Mountain Shelter
Section Mile: AT 1832
ECT Mile: 2531
Last night was the coldest so far in this hike. The thermometer at the
shelter read a cool 20 F at night. My thermometer reads 10 F now. I know
its 12 F off. My water bottle was half frozen at about 2:00 am but by
morning was frozen almost solid.
Got a late start again. This is getting to be a problem . Getting out of
the sleeping bag into cold hiking gear and walking the first hour or two
is the worst part.
Met Richard on the way. He had stayed one shelter behind. I was not in a
hiking mood today. Took a break at Little Laurel Shelter. Richard joined
me shortly. It was warm at the shelter because of the sun. Decided to cut
the day today and stop at Spring Mountain shelter. This shelter because
of the hills nearby gets little sun and the temperature was 45 F when I
got there.
Cooked in daylight for a change and looked at the register. Looks like
Firebreather and Fall Girl will be taking 4 days off in Hot Springs.
We might finish together. Crawled into my sleeping bag and ready to sleep.
Date: November 16 2000
Trail Day: 169
Miles Today: 11
Location: Elmer's Hostel, Hot Springs
Section Mile: AT 1847
ECT Mile: 2548
Last night was relatively warm. It stayed above 40 F for a daily range of
40 to 45. Got a late start. The terrain was fairly easy and had only 2 minor
climbs. This distance is covered quickly when running into towns. The
pack is light, its downhill and there's the enticement of a town - food,
shower and a WARM bed. This time I have run out of food completely.
I think I am eating more because of the cold. The ice in my water bottle
has still not melted even though I have poured water into it.
Saw Richard at Elmer's hostel. He told me Hymmetus and Andrew are also
there. Had lunch at a nearby diner. The food was excellent. Andrew came
by and we chatted for a while. Andrew is 24 years old and trying to find
direction in life. He has been to several colleges but hasn't finished
his degree yet. He said he is having a hard time with the cold. I think
we all are.
Talked to Dave Farley. The plans are for me to be at Fontana village on 23rd
night and he will pick me up on the 24th morning. I was hoping to make it
there before Thanksgiving, what with the turkey dinner and all, but it
seems difficult. If I do the Smokies in 4 days (70 miles) then I will be
there 22nd night. But due to the late starts and terrain it will be
difficult. I will certainly try it.
Also saw Nomad's book. It is in a journal form. I think it would have been better in a narrative form. I find journals tedious to read. I have read only one journal from start to finish so far. Its Dragon Breath's journal.
Date: November 17 2000
Trail Day: 170
Miles Today: 26
Location: Groundhog Creek Shelter
Section Mile: AT 1873
ECT Mile: 2574
Talked to Vivek in the morning and asked him to mail me the Georgia
Pinhoti maps. He is also trying to get a newer set for me. Had a long
talk with him.
I am also experiencing a mixture of anxiety and apprehension. The
Smokies are the highest elevations in the AT and hence the coldest.
If I clear it comfortably I think I should have no significant problems
after that. I was also trying to get to Fontana dam by the 22nd. My
morale and spirits are now high.
There was good climate from Hot Springs to Bluff mountain. Made it
quite easily. Passed Hymmetus on the way. I was planning on doing a
20 mile day but as I had some day light left decided to go over
Max Patch and find water and tarp. I have heard of Max Patch a lot and
now know why. It is a beautiful bald. I was also trying to determine
where the Smokies where. I was at about 4000 ft while the Smokies are
at 6000 ft. As I climbed up and reached the summit of Max Patch there
was no doubt as to where they were. It was the huge moutain range half
lost in the clouds.
There was absolutely no water on the other side of Max Patch. Kept
hiking to the shelter and walked for an hour or so in the dark. Its not
fun. Made it to the shelter where Salmon and Malochai were there.
Both are section hikers. We were then joined by a teenager and a guide.
It got cold quickly and even the denatured alcohol was difficult to
light. Did not feel very hungry for some reason and ended up eating
only half the normal ammount. Crawled into the bed and bundled up.
Talked to the others for a while. Salmon has a very graphic
way of describing things. I think he must have some artistic talents.
End of a very good day and a good start to get to the Thanks Giving
turkey dinner by 22nd. I hope it continues.
Date: November 18 2000
Trail Day: 171
Miles Today: 18
Location: Cosby Knob Shelter
Section Mile: AT 1891
ECT Mile: 2592
Got a fairly early start today. There was 1.5 mile up and then down to
I-40, then a little bump and onto NC 284. Hitchhiked the 1.5 mile to
Mountain Mamma's - a country store. Had a big burger and 2 chicken
sandwiches. Picked up grocery for 4 days.
Could not get a ride back to the trail so had to walk it instead.
Then came a 3500 ft climb onto the Smokies ridge. Got to the shelter
just as the sun was setting. There were 2 other section hikers there.
Cooked dinner and slept. The shelter was somewhat warm because of a
fire the 2 had started. A very good day considering I had to do a
resupply stop and got here with most of the climb upto the ridge.
