Date: June 12 2000
Trail Day: 12
Miles Today: 0
Location: Between Le Pluvier and Mt. Albert
Section Mile: IAT 145.8
ECT Mile: 145.8
Got up early and started hiking. The snow is supposed to be firm early in
the morning. Stopped by La Gite for breakfast - they were not open. It was
6 am. (Its bright here at about 4:30). The first couple of hours were good.
It was uphill all the way but no snow. Came to the shelter - La Serpentine.
Saw a good looking woman cleaning the place. Her name is Ivy. She and
her husband David are here to perform research on the caribou. Caribou are
peaceful, curious creatures who will on occasion follow man. They spend most
of their time on ridge tops but were now down in the trees for calving.
Ivy said they were missing a lot of them because of this. She also told
me of trail conditions further up and to follow their footsteps in the
snow they had made the previous day. I now entered the closed segment
of the trail. Things were good for another half an hour. Then the trail
seemed to run into a cul-de-sac about a mile wide that had sharp mountains
on three of its side. The trail went straight up one of these sides and it was covered
with snow. I went up about 5 feet and came back sliding down. I could see
Ivy and David's footprints but it was dangerous for me with a heavy backpack.
They are certainly courageous folks.
I then bushwhacked along the northern face to try and find an alternate
route with little or no snow. I scouted without my backpack and found one
on the very eastern corner, went back and got my backpack and got back up.
I then bushwhacked about a mile back to the trail. The top of Mt. Albert is
flat with no trees and has no snow. Progress was fast. Then the trail
started decending into snow fills. I decided to hike along the top
and to find the trail a little further on. A little later I decended and
found snow all around me. I could not find the trail. I hiked back and
forth for about 1.5 hours very frustrated. The snow was starting to
collapse about every 10th step. I then decided to go back to the top to find
the trail. Suddenly I heard voices and found two young guys about 1/2
a mile away. They are Luc and Vince. They were on a weeks vacation and
were following my footsteps and were therefore also lost. If you have to
be lost under trying conditions it is better to be with company. I was
glad I found them. The three of us then decided to continue hiking along
the top of Mt. Albert in hopes of seeing the lake towards which we were
headed. We couldn't see it. We then decided to pass through a valley and
back on top of a hill along which the trail was supposed to run. This
turned out to be a miserable affair. It was now much later in the day
and the snow would collapse about every fourth step. It was much worse
than my hike from Mt. St. Pierre to La Galene but I wasn't so
demoralised as I had company. Our shoes and sox were thoroughly wet and ice
cold. A lot of ice had entered my shoes and my feet were getting numb.
It was now starting to get dark. We reached a stream and made a guess as
to where we were on the map. The trail was about a km north. We tried hiking
some more but gave up when it was almost dark. We found a little area
enough to set up one tent. I set up tent there. Luc and Vince put there's
up in the snow. They had thermal pads. Luc started a fire. It was
invigorating. We cooked supper, ate and crawled into the comfort of our
sleeping bags. My feet started to thaw and it was painful for about an
hour. My feet were ice cold. They warmed up as the night progressed and
I slept well. It was an end to a very hard day.
Lost in Mt. Albert
Date: June 13 2000
Trail Day: 13
Miles Today: 0
Location: Cap Bon Ami Campground
Section Mile: IAT 145.8
ECT Mile: 145.8
We decided to return as the snow was too difficult. We continued to where
the trail was supposed to be but could not find it. I think we actually
crossed the trail but failed to see it as it was covered with snow.
Progress continued to be difficult. The night had been warm and the snow
was bad. I went down to my hips on several occasions and had to come
crawling out. We reached the top of the hill which was sort of bald
and hence had no snow. We now had one hill to cross to get to the top
of Mount Albert. The hill turned out to be a little easier as there were
sections with no snow. We made relatively good time and started climbing
Mt. Albert. We then found the trail and headed back down. We decided to
stay at La Serpentive where Ivy and David were staying. We pitched our tents
outside and cooked supper. I talked to them about their research. They do
this every year and do four trips a year each lasting 10 days - I envy
them. David teaches at the University of Maine but lives across the
border in New Brunswick. They are married and are very good people.
Had a good warm sleep.
Trickling stream falls of
melting snow.
Date: June 14 2000
Trail Day: 14
Miles Today: 15.6
Location: La Pluvier
Section Mile: IAT 161.4
ECT Mile: 161.4
I walked about 30 km although only about 25 km were trail miles, the other
5 were completing the back track. Came down Mt. Albert to La Gite.
Ivy and David
were also leaving that day. I decided to hike the forest roads to Lake
Cascapedia with its shelter called La Pluvier. I started walking along Rt. 299.
David and Ivy stopped by in their car. Ivy misses her little dog. We talked
a little. I got some information on what ski trails are. I may have to use
some of them instead of hiking trails. Some ski trails actually run on top
of frozen lakes and bogs and are thus not good for hiking. We said our
good byes and I continued on.
I looked at the map and it looked as though I could cut out about 4 km if I
waded a river and walked a ski trail to Rte. 11. I found a suitable
place called Grand Fosse where the river is very broad and hence not
that deep. I surveyed the river and found a route that would only get me
thigh deep in the water. Got another stick and started crossing. I ended
getting up to my hip in water. I was going too deep in some points. I could
see craw fish becoming agitated due to my thrusting the stick. Crossed the
river with no problem. Squeezed out the water from my socks, dried my feet
(my sleeping bag managed to stay dry) and continued along the ski trail.
It was well maintained and good. Reached Rt. 11 and continued towards Lac
Cascapedia.
Got to La Pluvier and met Marcel and Paul. Its a small world. They work
at Pratt & Whitney, Montreal. (I worked at Pratt & Whitney, Florida
before the hike). They are here on a week's vacation to scope out the
area to return on a ski vacation in winter. They had gone cross country
at Mines Madeline that day. They are a couple of fun outdoor guys.
They gave me beer, food and white gas - Thanks, some more trail angels.
Date: June 15 2000
Trail Day: 15
Miles Today: 12.4
Location: Le Huard
Section Mile: IAT 173.8
ECT Mile: 173.8
Had some coffee in the morning, thanks to Marcel and Paul. I took a
photograph of them and me. They were posing with their skies. Last evening
I had talked to the caretaker of the shelter and he had said that two
people were trying to hike from Lake Thibault (to which I am now headed)
and should be arriving any time if successful. He said he would let me know
if they did. I did not see him that night. Today morning I talked to him
on the way out and confirmed that they had indeed not arrived. He had also
met the hiker the folks at Mt. Saint Pierre had met in 1985. It looks like
he was a black botanist. He was also big and tall and it appeared as though
he was doing it in sections over a period of 3 years. The care taker also
told me that the bird that I had encountered back in Park Forillion (and
that I had seen several time since) was a spruce grouse. It is now nesting
time and they are thus somewhat territorial. There is also a ruffed grouse which I
may also have encountered.
I started hiking Rte. 11 towards Lake Thibault with its shelter called
La Huard. Half way into the hike a car with 2 guys stopped to chat. They were
the hikers attempting to cross to Lake Cascapedia. They told me they had also
got lost and had to return due to snow. I think the trails here should be
blazed just like other places, so that it is easier to find the trail.
Here the reliance is on the actual tread with few sign posts. Once it
gets covered with snow it is very difficult to find it. Even in good
weather there seems to be other treaded trails that seem to cross it and
can be quite confusing. In short - the trail needs to be blazed. The guys
gave me some bottled water and GORP (mixture of Granola, Oats, Raisin,
Peanuts. However the term is now generically used for any trail food).
A car wth 2 rude people also stopped to ask for directions. I have
not mentioned this so far. But this is pure white territory. (Unfortunately,
I know decent number of people who would like to live in just such a
world). Most are quite comfortable with other races or at least attempt to
be so. However there is a significant section of the people who are
uncomfortable and the hostility shows right through. They have also been
so isolated that I can tell them I am an American Indian, Asian Indian,
Egyptian, Kenyan, Arab and it would make no difference. Most people
here have just heard vaguely of India and think it is somewhere near
Egypt. Anyway, just wanted to pass on the social element along.
I got to Le Huard and decided to explore the trail from there. About
4 kms into it I found a stream that was crossable with effort. That
combined with the probability of finding snow further on made me turn
back. This entire section is supposed to be closed due to snow.
I thus ended up doing an aditional 8 km of non trail mileage. I was
eager to get back to Le Huard before dark and slipped and stumbled
in several places. This is a shelter with 16 beds. No one is here, so I
have the place to myself. I started a fire, cooked, ate and went to bed.
The first half hour was a medley of my childhood memories with Mom and
Dad. I could hear my Dad's voice almost continuously. It was very
strange. After that I went downstairs to check on what sounded like
light foot steps - nothing. If you have an over active imagination
and you are alone, the place has the potential to drive you nuts -
think of an axe murderer horror movie in a camp in the wilderness and
you have the setting. After that I fell asleep.
Date: June 16 2000
Trail Day: 16
Miles Today: 13.7
Location: Le Nictale
Section Mile: IAT 187.5
ECT Mile: 187.5
Continued hiking along Rte 11. It is now a very rugged road. I am entering
the farthest corner of the park. The hiking trail actually joins this road
for the last 6 km to Mt. Logan. In that section it is a dirt road, hiking
trail, skiing trail and a bicycle trail combined. Encountered only patches of snow
till La Roulotte (a shelter near Lake des Iles). This is where the hiking trail
joins the road. The road then did a sharp turn to west. I was dumbfounded
by what I saw. It was covered fully with snow. No one had been on it - there
were no foot prints or tire treads. The suddenness with which so much snow
started was amazing. I hiked for a short while then decided to rest for a
while. Ate something and collected my thoughts. If the road was unpassable
I have to back track several days as there are no other alternate roads. Got
worried, started hiking again. The snow was firm and hiking was possible
although tiring. It was almost all snow till I reached the top of the hill -
about 1 km. Then it started to break up.The snow is melting and has formed
small streams on the side of the road. This section has no snow. I walked
on those places whenever I could. My water proof boots paid for themselves
today. About another 2 km of, on and off snow and I reached Le Nictale (a
shelter). I decided to leave my back pack and explore with just a fanny pack
with essential survival stuff.
The way the maps show it, there should be a T to this road to the left
followed by the trail also to the left, followed by the peak of Mt. Logan.
I could also see recent foot prints (perhaps 1-2 days old). This was a
good sign as the people had accessed the shelter from the other side.
That means in the worst case I can take the road and not have to back track
- excellent news. I found the T for the road but not the trail continuation.
I hiked to the peak of Mt. Logan. They have a hut and a radio tower there.
I checked both of them out and took a photo. Near the peak I saw the IAT
signs and they seemed to head north of the peak whereas the map shows to head
south well before the peak. I explored the trail and it looks doable. I
returned to La Nictale and looked at the map more closely. It looks like
the map for the Reserve of Matane (which comes just after Mt. Logan) is
badly screwed up. I have made an estimate based on the peaks I know the trail
touches. I will just have to follow the signs and hope for the best. I
will also have get an early start to get some firm snow. This has the
potential for a frustrating hike, but currently I am feeling good and
should be able to plough through a day of bad snow. After that the general
trail altitude drops a little and I may be done with snow. I've got
my fingers crossed.
Note of my walking stick. I had picked up one on my first day at Cap Bon
Ami. It was somewhat slender and flexible. It broke in two when I was trying
to get on top of Mt. Albert. At that place there were no other trees -
only shrubs. It is quite unsafe to climb that area without a stick. I did
what I could with the broken one. Once I was on top there were posts used
for markers. I took one of them. Then on the way back I found an
abandoned ski pole. I took it and left the marker. I have now hiked several
days with the ski pole and like it. I think it will last for a good while.
I have also started stinking. You know they say you cannot smell yourself
because you get used to it. Not true - thru hikers stink. When
I reached La Pluvier, on three different occasions people spontaneously
told me that the camp had a free shower !!
Today was a good day. I feel good. I hope from tomorrow I am on the trail
instead of the road. I have also been sleeping on the lower bunks in all the
shelters. Tonight I will try the upper bunk. Good night.
A View
Date: June 17 2000
Trail Day: 17
Miles Today: 14.3
Location: Entrance to Petit Sault
Section Mile: IAT 201.8
ECT Mile: 201.8
Did not get the early start I had planned on. The day was very windy. Got
to the top of Mt. Albert. Then continued on the trail towards Reserve du
Matane. Today I left Parc de la Gaspesie. It has taken me a while. I also
caught a faint glimpse of the ocean. It is about 30 km to the north.
Continued on to Mt. Fortin. The views were spectacular. The trail ran along
the ridge. Distances are deceptive at this height. The whole forest looked
like a lawn. Encountered only patches of snow - mostly firm. Between
Mt. Fortin to Mt. Matawees there is a rather sharp valley. The trail
turned on, descended into the valley and ascended Mt. Matawees. Things
became tough here. This portion is covered with snow. I had a hard time
determining the trail. The IAT/SIA folks have done a wonderful job
marking all the turning points with the IAT tag. This made things
some what easy. But, I would like to plead, even beg the trail maintainers
to please, please blaze. It can make things easy for many a weary traveller.
I found my way to the top. Again splendid views. The trail ran along another
ridge to Mt. Collins then started descending sharply. Here, I saw a caribou
about 250 feet away looking at me. Ivy (the caribou researcher) had told
me that they were curious animals and sometimes follow people. As I was on
a steep section I did not want any close encounters with large animals.
I shouted and waved my arms. It started coming towards me. Having no other
choice I continued on the trail towards it. Then it started runing away and
was followed by 2 young ones with much shinier coats. I was very happy.
I had been disappointed that I had not seen any caribou so far. I had seen
abundant droppings but no animal. Mt. Logan and its vicinity was my
last chance to see one and I did. I continued to look for it as I climbed
down but did not see it any more.
The trail then did all kinds of turns. I tried to keep a track on my map
but eventually got thoroughly confused. At one point the trail even went
exactly in the opposite direction of desired travel for about 1 km before
crossing a little stream and turning sharply around. I just followed the
metal tags with fingers crossed. After what seemed like an eternity
I came to a beautiful water fall. I made a guess as to where I was and
continued on. Finally I reached Rte 1 (a good land mark) and then continued
to the entrance to Petit Sault Chutes Beaulieu. Rt 1 runs along a valley
besides river Cap Chat. The mosquitoes are horrendous. I ate inside
my tent and am now writing the journal. About 50 ft away the river makes
a 5 ft waterfall. I can even see it from my tent.
My impression of Park de la Gaspesie - I could not hike most of the
trails. Whatever I did were well maintained. An ideal active vacation could
be planned using La Gite as the base and making day hikes to Mt.
Jacques Cartier and Mt. Albert. Hikes are also possible using the huts
but will require a willingness to rough it out. Also wait for the snow
to melt completely.
I may encounter some more snow on Mt. Blanc the highest peak in Reserve
du Matane. But once I get past that I should see no more snow till I
approach Georgia.
Date: June 18 2000
Trail Day: 18
Miles Today: 13.6
Location: Unidentified lake near Mt. Blanc
Section Mile: IAT 215.4
ECT Mile: 215.4
Today's trail ran beside a stream that had several water falls. The climb
was steep and was a rock climb in places, though never dangerous. It then
crossed the stream and followed a smaller stream that also had several water
falls. There were places where one could possibly take a refreshing shower or
a dip. This and the previous section lasted about 5 km. It was so beautiful
that I did not notice the hard climb. I think that this section has a lot
of potential. Some viewing areas, benches and bridges could be added to
enhance the view. Currently, it is very undeveloped and one misses some
good water falls especially of the bigger streams. I think this is the
best section I have done in this hike.
The trail then crossed the little stream and headed to the top of Mt.
Nicole Albert. What a view ! I could see the ocean and also Mt. Logan.
Then it went down and back up to Mt. Bayfield. All this while all of it
was sharp up or down. Then the trail became moderate for the rest of the
way. I also met two maintenance men who had been cleaning the tree
top blow downs. They said the trail was more difficult to follow on top
but that the trail was flagged.
I am having a horrible time of keeping track of where I am. Both maps
that were given to me by IAT and Sepaq are rubbish. The maps dont show many
of the lakes that I saw and the trail runs by. The trails shown are
also wrong. All I know now is that I am about 5 km from Mt. Blanc to the
north. There have been patches of snow but not enough to be a problem.
I should see more tomorrow. It has also been cold today so I am preparing
for a cold night. I am also almost out of snacks but have about 5 days
worth of food left. I should reach some stores in 3 days.
Note on food cravings. The deep hunger that I have heard about has not
kicked in yet. I guess my body is still trying to get rid of the excess
fat. However, I have already dreamt about food twice. In one I was in a
store deciding to buy a loaf of bread and jam to eat immediately. In
the second I was disappointed that I had missed a dinner organized at Pratt &
Whitney but then someone came and told me that they were still serving
dinner in another place.
I also saw a snake today. About 1 ft long slender, black with grey
lengthwise stripes. I thought snakes couldn't live in these cold areas.
I also realized that there are no birds such as eagles, vultures or kites
circling the skies here.
