Date: July 10 2000
Trail Day: 40
Miles Today: 9.7
Location: Ft. Fairfield
Section Mile: IAT 537.5
ECT Mile: 537.5
It rained again last night. Waited for the rain to stop and got a late
start. The trail continued along the abandoned railway bed beside the
Tobique river. Tobique river merges with St. John river. The trail
follows this river to the town of Perth - Andover where I had lunch.
Then it crosses the river and then continues along the river north
to a town called Aroostook. Here it uses another abandoned railbed
called Timber which runs west into the US border. Then it runs along
the US border till Ft. Fairfield. The border is fairly easy to tell.
About 50 ft. of the forest has been cleared and there are concrete
markers every km or so which says US on one side and Canada on the
other. At one point there was a large beaver pond. I got quite
disoriented trying to work my way around it and found myself walking
in the wrong direction. Off the border some of the places are very
dense and it is easy to get lost. Finally found my way back by
spotting the electric lines that also run along it part of the way.
I also saw a moose with its calf. It did not run away immediately
and I was able to get my camera out and get a
shot. I also took a
shot of me near one of
the concrete border markers.
I then tried to get a lift from the border to the town of Ft.
Fairfield about 4 km away. No luck, had to walk the whole way. The
post office was open, so I got my mail drop from Vivek. There is
a Potato Festival here. I tried to find a hotel/motel or bed and
breakfast. There is only a B+B with the owners absent. Folks around
here aren't sure if they are still operating the B+B. The door to the
porch is open so I decided to wait there. I think I will wait here
and if no one shows up, sleep here in my sleeping bag. I have no other
choice.
Customs was no problem. Looks like every customs officer has a sour
puss and I always get him. He almost regretfully told me that my documents
were fine and that I could proceed.
Wrote too soon. Around 10 PM a couple came in. I think they were taking
care of the B+B in the owner's absence. They told me that there was no
B+B anymore. They wouldn't even let me put a tent in a nearby lawn that
belonged to the post office. I started walking out of town back to the
trail. On the way I saw a little pond with some mowed areas. It was quite
out of town and near the border. I put my tent up. As soon as I got
comfortable in my sleeping bag it started pouring. I was lucky. It has been
raining here a lot. I think I have had about 10 days of rain in the past
12.
Also a note on the trail quide description for New Brunswick. Almost all
the stated mileages are under estimates. It says Mt. Carlton to Plaster
Rock is 67 kms, its actually 81. Plaster Rock to Perth Andover it says is
25. Its actually 41. Road mileages are easy to obtain and therefore
there is no excuse for them not to be accurate. This needs to be corrected.
Date: July 11 2000
Trail Day: 41
Miles Today: 18
Location: Top of Mars Hill
Section Mile: IAT 555.5
ECT Mile: 555.5
Frogs croaked all night at the pond. The rain let up at morning. I packed
up and started hiking. The trail continues along the US - Canada border
for another 12 miles. The beginning was rough. It was very over grown and
there were several bogs. In one I got my foot stuck about a foot deep
and had a hard time pulling it out. Later on, the border cleared area
was also used by ATV's, so it was much easier. I think the GORETEX in my
shoes have failed. My socks get soaked when I walk on wet grass. This
did not happen before.
It drizzled a little during the day. It also became cold and windy. I could
see Mars Hill in the distance almost as soon as I started hiking today
morning. At first it was a faint blurry hill. Then all of a sudden it was
the next hill. The trail up the hill is a good one. It runs through lush
forests. Absolutely no water though. I did not drink any water today because
I was not thirsty on the border which had lots of water. Once the trail
left the border and went up the hill, I got a little thirsty but no water.
I am also totally out of food. I was planning on having breakfast and buy some
food at Ft. Fairfield but since I got kicked out I did not get a chance
to. Anyway, I will be in Mars Hill by about 11 AM tomorrow.
Saw a wonderful lean-to (shelter) at the US border built by IAT. Had I
known it was there I would have got out of Ft. Fairfiled earlier and
slept there. There is another lean-to here on top of Mars Hill. But it is
very cold due to the wind. I may have to put on my thermal underwear -
unbelievable in mid July ! I think I can also see Mt. Katahdin though
I am not sure.
Incidentally, yesterday was an important day as I crossed over to the US.
One country down, one more to go. Two states down, sixteen to go.
A grassy trail
Katahdin sighted 1.
Katahdin sighted 2.
Date: July 12 2000
Trail Day: 42
Miles Today: 25
Location: Littleton
Section Mile: IAT 580.5
ECT Mile: 580.5
Last night was cold. I had to zip up my sleeping bag fully - haven't
done this in 20 or 30 days. Also had to keep my face fully covered
to let my breath warm the bag up. I talked to a guy later during the day
and he said there was frost. The day however was bright and shining.
A good change from the past several days.
Started down Mars Hill. It follows a service road but uses several back
tracks to cut out the steep portions. These trails are also good. The
climb down was surprisingly quick. It also used the ski slope at the very
bottom. Saw my favourite part of the ski slope - the bunny hill. This is
the only place I can ski without breaking my neck. Got out of the parking
lot and on to the road to the town of Mars Hill. As I kept walking it
looked as though the town had nothing - no stores, restaurants or gas
stations. But then it took a turn and all of a sudden everything.
I had breakfast at Al's diner served by a beautiful but spaced out girl.
Had a large breakfast and two milk shakes - Uhmmm. Sent a roll of film
to Suriyan and my travel documents to Vivek. I am now well inside the
border and won't be needing them anymore. The people at the post office
were quite interested when I told them I was headed to the AT. They
wished me well.
Note on geographic awareness : Looks like there are some places where
geographic awareness of an area changes quickly. In all of Quebec
people knew Park Forillion and Cap de Gaspe. Also true for New
Brunswick till Kedgwick. Then when I entered Riley Brook they had no
idea where it was. But they knew Gaspesie - the general area. Then
when I entered the US no one knew Gaspesie. So I now have to say I started
from Quebec.
Anyway, I bought some trail food and headed out of the town of Mars Hill
by an abandoned railroad converted to an ATV trail. Got to Bridgewater
and followed US 1 to Montriello where I had lunch and talked to the
old gentleman who ran the store. He worked in the jewelery business
for 50 years and is now 78 - doesn't look it at all. Continued on the
railroad track to Littleton. There was a store nearby. So I bought a half
gallon of lemonade and sandwiches. I have eaten quite well today. I guess,
to make up for yesterday.
I have also decided to use the southern approach to Katahdin. It is a
lot more road. I don't have a choice. It looks like the Baxter Park employees
are being hostile to IAT hikers. I had asked Suriyan to make reservations
for the northern approach for tenting. But it looks like I will be there much
sooner. The idiots there need about a month in advance applications. With
that it is impossible to time the IAT hike.
Date: July 13 2000
Trail Day: 43
Miles Today: 27
Location: Lake Pleasant Birch Point Campground
Section Mile: IAT 607.5
ECT Mile: 607.5
My longest day - 27 miles and I was totally worn out. Started out a little
late in the morning and continued down the tracks. Then there were signs
to follow another ATV trail to get back to US 1. This was actually a
decent trail. Went up and down some small hills and through severeal bogs.
Then I lost the trail near a factory looking place. I made some guesses
and headed towards US 1. I finally walked through a U-Haul ground and onto
US 1. In another mile it was I-95 and the town of Houlton. Houlton is
where I-95 begins and is almost on the Canadian border. Had breakfast
at McDonald's and called Vivek. Continued towards downtown. Went to the
library and checked my email and web page. Headed out on Rte 2A.
Had lunch at a diner. I have also been wondering what a little apple
looking fruit was. There were places where they grew in abundance. The guy at
the diner said it was crab apple and edible. This is good, nothing
like fresh fruit on a hike.
Continued on 2A to a town called Linnens and took South Oakfield Road
West. I am using the maps that Trickster had given me. They are very useful
and have a lot more detail than my other street maps. Thanks Trickster.
Towards evening I came by an old cemetry. Most of the people had been
buried in the late 1800's and very early 1900's. Many of them died
young but some lived to be quite old. I saw one who was 92 another 78. The
92 year old guy was born in 1800. Also came across a grave of an 8
year old boy with the inscription "Our boy will live a man". I thought
of the sadness his parents must have felt when they buried him on this
spot a 100 years ago. A pause for thought.
About a mile down I came to a good looking house with the sign -
Dew Drop Inn. I thought of getting some food there. It is actually
not an inn, just a home of a retired guy. His yard is open for
travellers and visitors to stop by. There was a playground for children,
a fire place and a shelter. The guy gave me some water and 7 up. His
name is Buddy Whitney and he retired in 1986. He bought 75 acres here.
He is a nature lover and does not hunt or fish - quite unusual here.
While we were talking several rabbits were hopping about in the yard.
He showed me an old humming bird's nest. He also told me there used to be
an old big plantation in that area. The people in the cemetry were from there.
The town was then moved when the railroad came in. Buddy does not have
any electricity because it is too remote. Everything is gas run.
Continued on to Lake Pleasant and got a tenting spot at Birch spot. 20$ -
highway robbery. I was thinking of just passing it but I badly needed a
shower and laundry, so decided to cough up the money. My sleeping bag
is somewhat dirty and also needs to be washed but it needs one of those
front loading washers. Went to bed quite sore.
Ate my fill at their little restaurant. Also talked to a woman about my hike and her life. She seemed a little lost in spirit.
Katahdin in the distance.
Date: July 14 2000
Trail Day: 44
Miles Today: 20.5
Location: Stacyville
Section Mile: IAT 628
ECT Mile: 628
Some rain last night. Today's hike was to continue on the Oakhill Road
to US 2, then on unnamed road 5 miles south of Island Falls, then
Rte 11. A very round about way of approaching Baxter Park. But I
don't have a choice. Had breakfast at Island Falls. Very filling.
There was a farm with "Pick your own strawberries" on the way. Stopped
by and ate some. The guy there said that the first year they just
take the blossoms off and the second year is when you get the fruit.
I could see Mt. Katahdin off and on. Took a
shot of it. Towards noon Katahdin
disappeared behind clouds. An hour later it started pouring. I got soaked.
I saw one other nut out in the streets, a little girl about 8 years old in
her swimming suit was enjoying the rain. Two local girls stopped their
car and offered me a ride. I declined politely. They must think
I'm really wacko.
Got to Sherman. Had a banana split and BLT at a eat-in/take out place.
Fantastic banana split. I could have gone for one more but decided
to be civil. The rain had let up by this time. I asked the store owners
if they knew of a short-cut from Grindstone to Millinocket. This would
save me about 10 miles. At this point the road goes all the the way
out to I-95 and comes back in, in a sharp "V". The owners did not
know of any. They got one of the information people on the phone. I talked
to them. No luck. Rte 11 it is.
I continued towards Stacyville. It started raining again. I had planned
on going a little further but decided to set up camp to avoid getting wet.
But by the time I could find a good spot and get out the tent it was
pouring. My tent got all wet while I was setting it up. Then I threw my
sleeping bag in not realizing there was water inside. The bag acted
like a sponge and absorbed all the water. So went to sleep in a wet
bag and wet tent. It wasn't bad though. It rained very heavily over night
but my bag and tent dried out somewhat by morning.
Date: July 15 2000
Trail Day: 45
Miles Today: 26
Location: Baxter Park Road, 6 miles North of Millinocket
Section Mile: IAT 654
ECT Mile: 654
Rained heavily almost all night. No rain in the morning though. But the skies
were very ugly and overcast. There was fog everywhere. I got back into my
wet clothes, shoes and socks and started hiking. This part of Rt 11 is
very dull and boring. No towns, stores or other interesting land marks.
The road parallels the Penabescot river but you get only 2 or 3 glances.
The rest is too forested or quite far away.
One advantage of all this rain is that it has driven the bugs away. In
New Brunswick my legs were covered with wounds and sores from deer fly
bites. Now they are in much better shape. If the rain lets up the bugs come
back with renewed vigour. I got to Grindstone. Its just a collection of
houses. I knocked on a door to get water. The guy was initially wary but
subsequently invited me in, gave me a sandwich, gatorade, apple and
chips. He also had a detailed map of Maine. I looked at it and figured
out a shorter route directly to Millinocket instead of through Medway.
This is the reason I avoid talking to the official types (referring to
yesterdays telephone conversation). They are always concerned with
covering their own asses and their info is thus skewed. Anyway the
guys name is John. He grew up in Medway. He had the interesting habit
of describing the location of places with respect to a strip joint in
Millinocket. He had 3 little dogs. They kept yelping. One was frightened
of me while another one kept licking my leg.
I took the shorter route along the railroad track and got to Millinocket and went to a place called
Appalachian Trail Cafe. It is run by a gentleman named Don. A very
friendly place for hikers. We talked some and I signed his register.
The food was also good.
On the way out of Millinocket I bought some insect repellant. My older one
was finished about a week ago and I have suffered from insect attacks
quite badly. Now I am armed. Walked towards Baxter Park which is
about 20 miles away. The sun had come out and I stopped on the
way to dry out all my wet stuff. Then continued till the sun almost went down
and set up camp.
Well tomorrow is the day I will be on the big one, the big cheese, the
big Kahuna, the big bad boy, the mother of all trails - the AT. I am
quite excited. I dont know if I will be able to climb Katahdin tomorrow
but I will touch the AT. Also a note on Millinocket. It has a fairly
big place in AT lore. South bounders starting and north bounders ending
have to go through it. For south bounders this is where they leap
into the wilderness from civilization.
Date: July 16 2000
Trail Day: 46
Miles Today: 20
Location: Katahdin Stream Campground
Section Mile: IAT 674
ECT Mile: 674
Got up and headed to Millinocket lake. Very touristy area now. Lots
of boating and white water rafters. Had a sandwich and soda. The
forests here are quite lush. Continued on to Baxter State Park. I
was afraid they would give me a hard time if they found out I was
an IAT hiker. No such problems. I did not tell anyone that I had
hiked the IAT and kept a low profile.
I could see Baxter peak hidden by the clouds. I was debating whether
to climb Baxter today. However, as I approached Katahdin Stream Campground
I knew it was too late. It was about 4 pm. I had already done 20 miles and
was in no shape to take on a hard climb. The soles of my feet are also
hurting. The road walks are now taking their toll.
The ranger gave me accomodation at a lean-to. I cooked and ate some noodles.
I am now out of food except for some snacks for tomorrow. I saw a deer grazing
by about 30 ft away. Fun to watch wild life up close. A chipmunk started
rooting through my stuff. I gave it some cookies. It munched away fully alert.
It has clouded up again and should rain soon. I am also totally drained -
physically and psychologically. Perhaps it is the ending of one trail and
beginning of another. I dont know.
Tomorrow's plan is to climb Baxter Peak. Everything I have read and
heard says its very tough. There are places where you have to pull
yourself up by bolts driven in rocks. I will then try to hike to
Abol bridge to resupply or go hungry. From Abol bridge its in the
"100 mile wilderness" where there are no stores for a hundred miles. I
will then emerge in Monson, Maine.
