Date: August 9 2000
Trail Day: 70
Miles Today: 16
Location: Near Galehead Hut
Section Mile: AT 362
ECT Mile: 1045
Mike the motel owner/manager gave us a ride to a breakfast place. Nice but
slightly expensive. I had eggs benedict. He then gave us a ride to the
trail. The hike was fairly easy. It had rained last night so it was wet
and boggy everywhere. However it was not slippery so we flew through most of the
flat sections. The climbs were tiring but not bad. I am almost tempted to
say that the trail is getting easier. Most of the big hills are now out
of the way. In a couple of days we will cross Mt. Mousalake after which
the trail should become easier. The past ten days or so have been very
difficult.
Met Warren Doyle. He is kind of an AT legend. This is his 12th thru hike.
He held the record for the fastest AT hike in 1973. I think it was around
60 days. Quite amazing. Meeting people like him and Nimblewill
Nomad is quite inspiring. I hiked with renewed vigor after meeting Warren.
We got to the Gale head hut but could not get get work for stay. They
gave us some soup and soft drinks. We spent a couple of hours there.
Met Roots and Tennessee - thru hiking north. Roots (a female) started
out in Virginia on a 2 day hike and just kept on going. She is a little
short on cash and does work for stay wherever possible. I told her of
Horsefeather Inn in Oquossuc where they were looking for hikers to do
some chores. Sometime later Digger showed up. I first met Digger in
Gorham and have seen him several times since. He is from Israel and is hiking
till September after which he will go to California for a while.
Digger, Nomad and I then headed out to find a camping spot. The AMC has set
up rules that you cannot camp a quarter mile near a hut, road or trail.
I think it is a way of making sure that everyone has to stay in a hut
and they can rake in the money. They charge 60$ for food and a bunk bed.
They are always full. The food I have eaten is good by back packer
standards (we will eat just about anything), but for the price the
visitors pay it is horrible. Apparently AMC still makes a loss. With a
monopoly in such a prime tourist area, how they fail to make a profit
is beyond me. I can only conclude that either a good chunk of the money
is being swindled or it is being managed extremely poorly. I am willing to
bet a private company would be raking it in.
Anyway, we found a place to set up camp in the middle of a dense pine
stand. Digger decided to continue on to the next shelter. I am in my
tarp again but laid out much better. If it rains tonight and I remain
dry I will know for sure.
Date: August 10 2000
Trail Day: 71
Miles Today: 11
Location: Cascade Lodge, North Woodstock
Section Mile: AT 373
ECT Mile: 1056
It rained last night and my sleeping bag stayed dry. My tarp techniques
are certainly improving. Also got a bunch of slugs on my tarp and bags.
Packed up and started a short hike to US 3. The trail was quite tough
again today. First a sharp climb and descent on Mt. Lafayette. On the way up
hikers heading the other way told me that it was windy enough to blow
you over. Its difficult to relate to such stuff when you are below
tree line and everything is very peaceful. But as I kept climbing, the
wind was indeed strong enough to knock me in some places. Its kind of
riding a motorcycle in the wind - you lean into the wind, except here its
in gusts and you almost fall over when the wind lets up.
Once on the summit the trail became fairly level and easy to walk.
It ran the ridge till Mt. Lincoln before dropping into Franconia
notch. Most of the day the visibility was poor - barely 20 feet. My
glasses (only one side for some reason) collected enough condensation
to get blown away in droplets. Near Mt. Lincoln it cleared up some
and I managed to get some shots
1
2. Then the trail dropped below tree line
and it was a different world all together.
It was then a long steady climb down to the notch. Even though today was a
short day I had had enough. Got to US 3 and got a ride from a young
couple in their early 20's. The girl was very pretty and had piercings
all over her face. I told them about my hike and they said "Super cool"
about four times. They dropped me off at the Intersection with I-93
as they did not know much about North Woodstock. I obtained directions
and started begging for a ride again. Got one after a long time and got to
Cascade Lodge. Did laundry and had dinner. Over 3-4 hours I ate/drank
- one 2 scoop banana split, 1 20 oz prime rib with potatoes, 4 Coor
beers, 3 peaches and a 3 scoop banana split.
Date: August 11 2000
Trail Day: 72
Miles Today: 14
Location: Near Gordon Pond
Section Mile: AT 387
ECT Mile: 1070
Because of the late night yesterday, I could not get up early. Bill, the
owner of the place gave us a ride at 8 AM to the trail. The first 3 miles
were OK then I started to feel extremely sluggish and lazy. I took a nap
in a pine stand. Met Grits at this time. He is an older gentleman and
started mid April - making good time. Also took a short break at the
Lonesome Lake Hill. I seem to have these very down days every 7-10 days.
Beyond the 3 miles it was all sheer will power. For some strange reason, I met
the most encouraging and friendliest people today. There was a couple with
a son and dog. They were so encouraging that I felt a morale boost. I also
met Lab rat and another gentleman who urged me on.
About noon, Nature Boy whom I had met in N. Woodstock and had started the
hike about 1-2 miles behind my point passed me by. He asked me if I was
doing OK. I think it shows on my face.
Also met a mother and son day or section hiking who talked to me and
were a shot in the arm. I managed my alloted 13-14 miles and was deciding
whether to head into Gordon Pond (which was another mile down the trail)
or stay at a brook. There were several places suitable for a tent. I
looked at the skies - it was threatening rain and I had heard thunder
for several hours. I was also miserable and tired so decided to set
up camp.
Filled up water and started to cook. Half way thru it started to rain, so
I set up my tarp. Then it poured so I turned off the stove, set my food
near the tarp, and crawled into my sleeping bag.
I think a description of a tarp shelter is in order here. Tarps are
extremely light weight and hence easy to carry but they are tight as
a coffin. Once you are in it you have to stay there. You even have to be
careful how you roll around or you may change the configuration
enough to let water into your sleeping bag. I lay down without eating
hoping the rain would let up so I could eat - no luck. It was a downpour.
So I squirmed around on my stomach and ate my food - Ramen noodles with
Sardines.
Date: August 12 2000
Trail Day: 73
Miles Today: 12
Location: Glen Cliff
Section Mile: AT 399
ECT Mile: 1082
I was quite sure I would get drenched during the night. Morning came
and I was still reasonably dry - I think I am getting good at this
tarp stuff. I had cooked my noodles in a small depression and it was now
filled with water. I got the stove out of the water and packed. Its very
cumbersome packing up after a rain.
Today was the very opposite of yesterday. I started the hike in low spirits
(continuation of yesterday). After a time I checked the map and realized I was
1-2 miles ahead of where I had expected. This was in slightly more than
an hour.
Started the climb up Mousalake. It reminded me of the trail up Mt. Nicole
Albert. It ran along side a
cascade.
The trail was steep, but because
the cascades were so beautiful I did not realize the exertion. I reached
the ridge fairly quickly and headed to the summit.
At the summit there was a large group that said - "You must be a thru-hiker".
I said yes and they plowed me with all kinds of food. They were a very
generous and friendly group - true angels. I also got a
shot
of me at the
peak. This is a significant point for us south bounders - We have cleared
the toughest 200 miles of the AT. I was extremely happy.
The trail down was gentle. I practically ran down 4-5 miles downhill.
At a certain angle and good friction you can run down slopes. At slightly
higher angles and poor traction you can end up on your face. I flew down
to NH 25 and headed into Glencliff and the hostel there.
I saw Nomad again there. I showered and did laundry. Nomad and I got a ride
into Warren and bought pizza and beer. This is a nice hostel run by an ex-hiker
- very friendly.
Date: August 13 2000
Trail Day: 74
Miles Today: 13
Location: Old Cube Shelter
Section Mile: AT 412
ECT Mile: 1095
Packrat - one of the guys running the hostel showed a slide show of his PCT
hike. Quite different from the AT - much drier in some areas and lots of
snow in others. All of us slept somewhat late as a result. Got up also
slightly late and got to the trail by about 10 AM. Today's hike was
quite easy but towards the end there was a climb up Mt. Cube which was
quite long and steady. Near the peak the blazes all of a sudden became
different colored - some red and some blue. I continued downhill and
ended up on a dirt road. I did not know if I had taken the wrong trail.
I went to one of the houses and they told me that I had followed an old
trail.
I decided to sleep at the
Old Cube shelter
as it was getting late.
Tomorrow I will have to climb back to the summit and find the right
trail down - quite a pain to have to climb the peak again. This is an
abandoned shelter and has spiders, slugs etc all over.
Date: August 14 2000
Trail Day: 75
Miles Today: 14
Location: Trapper John Shelter
Section Mile: AT 426
ECT Mile: 1119
Last night I heard my plastic food bag rustling. I thought it was mice
getting to my food. But in the morning I found my food intact. Also started
smelling some very bad stuff - turned out to be my socks. They were smelling
much worse than usual. I think I stepped into some awful stuff.
Started hiking back up Mt. Cube. Managed it quite easily. I saw a double blaze
indicating a turn in the trail. How I missed it I don't know. I saw several
places with blue berries - ate some. It started raining about noon and
kept on. I got drenched but was in good spirits. However towards evening
I had had enough and was ready for the shelter.
There was only one other guy in the shelter. He was quite talkative.
He told me all about his gear, hike etc. He is from Boston. It continued
to rain all night.
Date: August 15 2000
Trail Day: 76
Miles Today: 16
Location: Alpha Theta Fraternity, Dartmouth College
Section Mile: AT 442
ECT Mile: 1135
It rained again in the morning. I waited till the rain let up. Saw several
salamanders today. I am also getting into the bad habit of tasting
unknown fruits along the way. I need to cut this out or I may end up
hallucinating or sick.
Easy terrain today. Very muddy though. Saw numerous north bounders. I
think the wave is just coming through. I think they will get to Katahdin
just before they close it for winter.
Also went through a place called Velvet Rocks. It has large rocks covered
with Spanish moss which gives it a velvety feel - looks nice. Got
into Dartmouth College. Its supposed to be a high brow, snobbish college.
Didn't see any evidence of it though. They all looked normal. The
fraternity Alpha Theta takes in thru hikers. So I went there. I have never
been in a frat. Went to the library, checked email, talked to Suriyan,
ate, drank and slept. A zero day tomorrow.
