Date: August 19 2000
Trail Day: 80
Miles Today: 22
Location: Stony Brook Shelter
Section Mile: AT 479
ECT Mile: 1172
A long mile day today. I was itching to get out. Started early and got done
by about 6 PM. The north bound wave is just coming in. I am seeing about 20
north bounders a day. About a month ago it was barely 2 or 3. Saw at least
10 female thru hikers. I think I am starting to see the weaker hikers
come through. Most do low miles. Many have seriously considered dropping
out. Some have actually done so and returned. I personally dont see the
point of doing the AT if you dont enjoy it. It is just too much time and
effort to spend on something you dont like. That's what a job is for. At
least there you get paid. Here you just waste 6 months of your life
- better do something else.
Also a note on the thru hiker caste system. Thru hikers rank above section
hikers, who rank above weekend hikers, who rank above day hikers. At the
bottom you have the scouts. No one will admit to this but that's the way
it is. Superiority among thru-hikers is determined by number of miles
covered. Near the 100 mile wilderness the north bounders have completed
about 2000 miles while the south bounder, only about 100. At this stage it
is common for many north bounders to not even talk to south bounders.
My case is slightly different. When I first tell them I am a south bounder -
I am scum. If I then tell them that I started at Cap Gaspe then I can almost hear
myself being re-evaluated and placed in a higher category.
At this stage the south bounders have covered about 475 miles but most
importantly they have crossed the hardest 200 mile section, so they get
treated better by the north bounders. Its funny to see the ego
dance when a north bounder meets a south bounder. On the positive side
this crap occurs only at the first meeting. By the second or third
meeting the mileages become immaterial.
The terrain now has become rolling hills, so I think I will be averaging
20 again. Mt Mousalake is certainly where things change. Now the climbs
are short and gentle.
A magnificent View
Date: August 20 2000
Trail Day: 81
Miles Today:
Location: Near Cooper Lodge
Section Mile: AT 471
ECT Mile: 1164
Last night's dinner was good. It was noodles that was hot and spicy.
I got it at the Co-op grocery store in Hanover. Its the best store I have
seen so far. I was also able to buy Indian food - Palak Paneer, Vegetable
Korma and Bombay Potatoes. All of them are somewhat heavy but delicious.
Started around 10:30 AM as I did not have many miles to cover. Nature Boy
stopped by the shelter. He said he has not had much sleep in the past 2 days.
The north bounders were loud, he said. I left a little after he did.
I passed him about an hour or two later. He said he was going to go
into Rutland and take a O day to recover and clear his head. We all need this
once in a while.
Today's section also overlaps with the Long Trail. The climb up Killington
seemed to go on forever. It was also towards the end. That always makes
it look longer. Several day hikers headed to US 4 asked me how far US 4 was.
US 4 is a very busy road and can be heard for miles. They were frustrated
because they could hear the road traffic but the road would never appear.
Also met Belcher and Swamp Eagle. Swamp Eagle is hiking from Key West
to Cap Gaspe and is suported by his wife driving their motor home.
Also met the most beautiful woman on my hike so far. She was model beautiful
and talked freely. She was a day hiker and was out with 2 others. For
some reason she kept fidgeting with her wedding ring.
I had planned on staying at the Cooper lodge, which is a shelter on top
of Mt. Killington but Belcher told me all the windows had the glass missing
and it was very windy and cold up there. So I set up my tarp about
a mile earlier. Set it up as a lean-to. Middle of the night I realized that
if the wind blew into my tarp it swelled up like a sail and offered
no over head protection from the rain. I would have been in a pickle
had it rained last night. Talking about pickles, I would like to have
Indian buttermilk rice and mango pickles - Ahh !
Well 13 miles tomorrow and another 5 the day after and I meet Suriyan. Most
probably take 2 O day's off and do the usual eat like a pig, drink like a
fish and sleep like a log routine.
Date: August 21 2000
Trail Day: 82
Miles Today: 13
Location: Near Vt 103
Section Mile: AT 484
ECT Mile: 1177
Last night was cold. I was in my full thermal underwear. I have completely
missed summer this year. When I was in Florida and Vivek was helping me move
we were sweating like pigs. But once I got to Canada it was cold. This
summer in New England and Canada has been cold and wet. Talking of wet it
has not rained in the past 3 days. I was afraid I would have moss grow
over me and slugs run all over me - its been raining so much. Today I actually saw dry ground. I think
I have forgotten how to walk on it.
I had a short climb further to Killington peak where there is a
shelter. My hands were so numb I could barely write. The climb down
was easy. I am always amazed that a climb that can take 4 hours can be
descended in 45 minutes - under the right conditions of course.
I got to Rt 103. I had been told of a Whistle Stop Restaurant about 0.5
miles west of the trail. Went there and had lunch there - 16 $. Canada
is starting to look cheap about now. Called Karen and confirmed that
I will meet Suriyan at Vt 140. Walked a little further west and got a 6
pack of Miller High Life beer. The champagne of beers - the can says. Nothing
but the best for me :)
Walked another half a mile on the trail and set up my tarp. This is my
best tarp set-up so far. I had to take a
photograph.
The place where I
tented was beautiful. Usually I end up tenting in God awful places.
This one was different. I couldn't have designed it better. Large trees
and soft level ground.
I had picked up a novel called Greenwich Killing Time mainly because it said
Raunchy, Violent and Funny. I thumbed through the whole book but found
no titillating parts. I decided to read it anyway. Its turning out to be
quite a good book.
Saw wild life after a long time. Saw one moose on the trail. Also when I
was reading in my tarp a deer walked by.
Date: August 22 2000
Trail Day: 83
Miles Today: 6
Location: Route Vt 140
Section Mile: AT 490
ECT Mile: 1183
Yesterday was also my first on trail magic experience. There was
one place on the trail with a case of Sprite and a note. Another place
had sodas floating in a stream. It feels so good to have a soda on the
trail. All the thru hikers seemed happy and content !
Covered 6 miles to Vt 140. where I meet Suriyan. Met Sherpa north bound.
Churi showed up 15 minutes later. We went to Rutland, did laundry and
had lunch. When hiking long distance the foot starts repairing and
healing at any rest periods. So it becomes slightly stiff and sore.
So I usually limp along after sitting in a car. Its funny to limp to a
store after just climbing several mountains. Churi got a kick out of my limping.
Date: August 23 2000
Trail Day: 84
Miles Today: 0
Location: Rutland
Section Mile: AT 490
ECT Mile: 1183
We spent today at the library and got info on how to make alcohol
burning stoves off of the internet. We made 1 and tested it out.
Yesterday I had made one with 2 beer cans. I had used rubbing
alcohol as fuel with poor results. But today we bought methanol
and the stove worked well. Its slower than the stove I have now
but it is much lighter and more convenient. Spent most of the day eating.
It is raining again and I am glad to be not hiking today.
Date: August 24 2000
Trail Day: 85
Miles Today: 0
Location: Rutland
Section Mile: AT 490
ECT Mile: 1183
Another O day today. Wasted money watching Nutty Professor - II. Made another
alcohol burning stove using beer cans. This one seems to be the best
performing. We also went to the AT and took some shots
1
2.
Other than that a relaxing day.
Date: August 25 2000
Trail Day: 86
Miles Today: 20
Location: Mad Tom Notch
Section Mile: AT 510
ECT Mile: 1203
Suriyan's flight was in the early morning from Boston and he needed about
4 hours to get from Rutland to Boston. We therefore had to check out by 2 AM.
He dropped me off at the parking lot. I set up my sleeping bag near some
trees with no tarp. He then left. We had had a great time together.
I could not fall asleep for some time. I woke up at day break but decided
to get some more sleep. After another half an hour's sleep I packed and
started hiking. I met two of the maintainers that I and Suriyan had met.
They had taken our photos. I chatted for a while and continued.
The first climb was gradual but long. However once it was over, the trail
stayed fairly high. Got to a place called White Rock. Someone had made
all kinds of little towers and designs near the peak. I took a photo.
I personally think its the work of aliens. Also met a caretaker
called Abby. She said she will be working here till mid October and then
moving to Sarasota to work at a wildlife Conservation agency. I had decided
to do a 20 mile day today and managed to do just that. I am now cooking using
my alcohol stove. With all the banging while hiking, the parts had become
loose and flames started coming through the gaps - workable though.
I may have to tweak it some more. Also will be sleeping in my tarp.
