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Trail Journal




Date: June 5 2000
Trail Day: 5
Miles Today: 16.8
Location: Campground in Grande Vallee
Section Mile: IAT 70.7
ECT Mile: 70.7

Excellent day today. The day started bright and clear although over night it was very cold (Later conversations revealed the temperature had dropped below freezing). Had a good breakfast after the fast yesterday. The road today ran along towns with stores. But I don't think I will be hiking without food any more. Mailed my first film and set of journal entries to Churi. Tried calling Kumar and Suriyan several times - no luck. Had a good lunch and dinner. Today was a relaxed day - not in terms of miles but I guess socially. Since I was walking through town I was meeting and talking to a lot of people. People seem to fall into two distinct categories - they like hikers or they hate them. The younger crowd is in general, favourably disposed. The older folks don't know what to make of me. Come up behind someone and hit him on the head with a baseball bat - that's the dazed look I get.

It is still very windy at times. If it is windy you need a jacket with hood up and gloves otherwise you can cut down your thermal barrier. But it changes very quickly. So its a cat and mouse game. I am also getting chaffing problems between my thighs. So I am walking with pants riding high to get some cloth between the problem area - you know, in sort of an Earkle fashion. I am already dark and wear glasses, throw in a nasal voice and the show should be complete.

I am now at a campground - 9$. Doing laundry after shower. Almost night, the sea is a deep dark blue while the sky is pink turning to blue. Its unbelievable. I am also down 950 ml of Labat Blue Dry Beer and feeling on top of the world.

I also got a ride from one of the local residents to a store without even asking for it. He was generous to a fault. He was born about 5 km from here and has lived here his whole life. We had an interesting conversation - me in highly broken French, him rattling away and me catching bits and pieces. Trail angels don't exist on the AT alone !!



Date: June 6 2000
Trail Day: 6
Miles Today: 19.2
Location: 2 miles west of Manche d'Epee
Section Mile: IAT 89.9
ECT Mile: 89.9

Today was a tough day. The hike started off with a 4-5 km steep climb and there were no interesting features or breakpoints for the first 18 km. The road was hard and my soles are hurting. I had breakfast and dinner at mom and pop stores. The dinner was at a home where they put 4 tables. Very quaint. Today's section was through a somewhat economically depressed area. I wonder what makes it such. There are similar towns a little east of here that are doing quite well. I was able to get internet access at Madeleine Center and made a "from the trail" entry. Towards the end of the hike (2 kms) the road is just a few feet above the sea and very level. One of the journals I had read mentioned this, although I had come away with the impression that it was like that all the way to Park Forillion - not so. Anyway, tomorrow's hike should be fairly easy and should get me to Mount Saint Pierre from where I enter the Parc de la Gaspesie by trail till the foot of Mount Jacques Cartier. Then, I do a road walk around the peak - as it is closed due to Caribou birth season and get to the resort Le Gite. There I pick up the food I had mailed from Montreal and start probably the most challenging section of my hike. There is about 3 feet of snow there although I have been told the snow is compact.

I am now about to set up camp beside the road (a safe distance away but visible from the road). I dont have a choice because there is just a narrow strip of land leading to very steep mountains. I will be waiting for it to get dark before I set up camp - just a precaution. It is very windy as it is right next to the open sea - should be interesting.

Anyway, end of a very long and tough day. Today was significant because I reached the northern most point of my hike and it is also the longest I have gone without shaving. I wanted to take a photo of myself in Manche de Epee as it is the northern most point. Its like a ghost town - no one around. I saw an old lady working in her yard and asked/signalled in French to her if she would take my photograph. She looked uncertainly for two seconds and then shook her head vehemantly and said No ! I got a photo at the store.



Date: June 7 2000
Trail Day: 7
Miles Today: 18.1
Location: Unnamed campground 2 km South of Mt. St. Pierre
Section Mile: IAT 108
ECT Mile: 108

Today was also tough on my feet and was a long day. The day started out grey and ugly and stayed that way till about 7 pm. Now the skies are clear and the sun is out. I think its going to be a cold night. Last night beside the road was no problem. I completed the roadwalk today. The roadwalk was along route 132 and was beside the sea. From here the trail heads south for a while. Today is the last I see of the sea till I perhaps get to Florida. The forest are a welcome change from the noise of the roads. It is also much warmer.

Had dinner at a canteen in Mt. St. Pierre run by Vivian and Charlie. I told them that I was trying to hike from Cap de Gaspe to Key West and they said that they had run into another gentleman who had hiked from Key West to Cap Gaspe in 1985. They showed me his hand written note. The note was a little blurred and his name as far as I could tell was Houston Fereuch Lumsden. Looks like he was a doctor and he was 50 plus when he hiked and he was dark like me ! I haven't seen any mention of this from what I have read. This deserves looking into. Anyway, she asked me to write a note also. I gave her my web address and asked her to sign the guestbook. They were a wonderful couple and were very helpful.

I was walking along side the sea where there is a wall and the sea on the other side. It has metal ladder like things every once in a while. I went down one of them to the shore and looked at the pools of water trapped between the rocks. I found numerous shrimps about 0.25 to 0.75 inches in size. I wonder if they are brill. I also got a major bonus today - saw a whale surface several times. It was awesome. I took two photographs.

Well, Mt. St. Pierre has been kind of a Mecca for me. It is what I was aiming for since I left Parc Forillion. It is a small town, so the road sign indicating it came only 6 km before. I was glad when I saw the sign. Took a photograph of it too.

I am now in a deserted campground ready to set up camp. Just before entering the trail 3 young guys drinking beer stopped their car and started talking to me in French. I told them I understood very little French and they started howling and yelling. Decided to just walk away. Asked directions from a local resident. The entire time I was talking to him he had his hands in his pants. I guess you have to run into wackos after encountering the wonderful people in the canteen to even out your probability score card.



Date: June 8 2000
Trail Day: 8
Miles Today: 17.4
Location: About 10 km from La Galene - foot of Mt. Jacques Cartier
Section Mile: IAT 125.4
ECT Mile: 125.4

Bright shiny day to make up for yesterday's doozie. I have no map of this section to La Galene but I am following the SIA/IAT plaques nailed to trees along the way. Many of the signs and arrows have been vandalised. So things can get tricky. However, I did not get lost at all. Started off with a gentle walk along the river de la Mt. Pierre. The trail sometimes ran through people's backyards. Then it followed a dirt road for a while and started climbing gently. Then all of a sudden a relatively new portion of the trail started. It had an angle of 70-80 degrees - I kid you not. It was only for about 25 feet but I had to crawl on all fours and grasp at trees and roots to get myself up. Then the trail did a steep climb that had me beat. After about 1 km of this it started following dirt roads and was more sensible.

But again near the end of the day it veered off and started doing a steep climb. I have gained about 2000 feet since Mt. St. Pierre and there is snow all over. Its not firm and it tends to collapse at spots - its a bitch. It was getting late in the day so I decided to set up camp. I was able to find a relatively flat piece of ground with no snow and am now in my tent. I am hoping the climb ends soon tomorrow. I am quite frustrated. Dinner has boosted my morale somewhat and my sleeping bag always feels good.

Photograph of a view



Date: June 9 2000
Trail Day: 9
Miles Today: 6.2
Location: La Galene - foot of Mt. Jacques Cartier
Section Mile: IAT 131.6
ECT Mile: 131.6

Well, the hike from Mt. St. Pierre to La Galene is the toughest hike I have done in my life. The trail is steep in portions, the snow collapses and I have no map. I also had to cross a stream by wading just before entering Parc de la Gaspesie. The water was upto my crotch and there were two brief instances where I thought I was going to be washed away. There was one instance on a hike near Lake Umbagog (Maine) where I got washed away. Once you lose your stability you are gone. I can still see the water gushing by on this one. The snow continues to slip and collapse. There were several instances where I went in knee deep and then I had to crawl out. In some of these I made about 1 km in two hours. Progress was not marked by km but by 20 feet increments - to the nearest tree, snow bank, level ground etc. Today was also a wet shoe and sock day right of the bat. The snow was melting fast as summer is approaching and the trail is covered with water in several places. There are little streams flowing all over the place.

To continue where I left off yesterday, the climb lasted another 0.5 km (about 1 hr) and then was fairly level. Then there was another climb that lasted perhaps 1.5 hours. My morale is now in the toilet. I am wet, cold and miserable. La Galene is situated in a valley and catches the wind squarely. So I cannot even stay outside my tent as my feet get numb. It had also rained last night, so everything was wet. I did manage to dry everything out except for the shoes.

The plan today was to do another 19 km to get to a campground. But I have decided to slow down and regroup. I will be taking the next two days easy and doing low miles. That should lighten things a bit.



Date: June 10 2000
Trail Day: 10
Miles Today: 11.7
Location: Porte de l'Enfer
Section Mile: IAT 143.3
ECT Mile: 143.3

Fairly easy day of hiking. The day was partly cloudy but very windy. It also has been a little colder as I am now in the mountains. I am now hiking route 14 to bypass Mt. Jacques Cartier. It is a forest road. I saw a moose or a caribou early in the day today. This area is known for caribou though I do not know what they look like. The place I am in now is more of a picnic spot where I have been permitted to camp overnight by Bermans Drouin, the director of Reserve of Faunique Des Chic-Chocs - Thank you very much. It is beside the river Saint Anne Nord Est. It is almost a white water.

The park ranger stopped by a while ago and checked my permit. He says there is lots of snow all the way to Mt. Logan and that the snow is firm in the morning but weak late in the day. Very few people out here yet. This peak is actually quite popular but as it is very early in the season almost no one is here. I saw only three vehicles during the entire day. Tomorrow to La Gite where I pick up my mail-drop of food. My pants have started to tear near the inner thigh area. I will have to sew it up at some point. Also forgot to mention - I weighed myself about three days ago. Came in at 195 pounds. About 5 of it should be water loss. So it could be 200 pounds. Still a loss of about 9 pounds over 6 days. Amazing. Today also marked the longest I have been hiking both in number of days and miles. Before this it was a ten day hike with Kumar over the Christmas break on the Florida trail. It was for 130 miles and we went from Port Mayaca to Desert Ranch.



Date: June 11 2000
Trail Day: 11
Miles Today: 2.5
Location: Le Faucon Refuge - foot of Mt. Albert
Section Mile: IAT 145.8
ECT Mile: 145.8

A light day of hiking. I was done by noon. Did about 4 km of non trail walks to find the shelter, foods, laundry etc. I was expecting to find the package I had mailed from Montreal but the front desk at La Gite said they had not received anything. I was evaluating my alternatives and having a beer at the bar when one of the other staff said that he knew of my package and brought it out. I was extremely relieved. Also had an interesting conversation with the waitress. I had lunch there. I have heard of the expression "Chicken that melts in your mouth", but this is the first time I have experienced it. I had a shower, did my laundry, mended my pants and mailed another set of journal entries to Suriyan. I had to sneak in and out of their bathrooms because I am not a registered guest. The people at the reception desk were however quite helpful. A very full day. Then I found my "refuge". Its a hut that I had booked in advance. When people think of their dream houses they might see a beach, ten bedrooms, four garages, pool etc. I see a rustic comfortable cabin - like this one. I need a place like this to live in. A bed in one corner to sleep in, a computer desk in another, and a small kitchen in yet another - a common bathroom should suffice.

I then got a ride from the guy who runs the place back to La Gite - very friendly guy, another trail angel. The dinner was fancy, I was not. I was in my shorts, T-shirt, hiking boots with no sox. Probably the best non- spicy food I have had. The service was excellent. Used knives and spoons would disappear and new ones would appear as if by magic. I had a glass of water I drank deeply from that never got empty. I was about to see the bottom of the bread basket and voila a new one. I am quite certain I broke numerous etiquette rules with knives and what not. There were nine of them on my table at one point. The place was expensive (lunch was reasonable) and cost me 50 Canadian dollars all included.

I also saw a rabbit outside that would not run when approached. I took a picture of it. In the evening I saw several of them around. Also the animal I saw two days ago was a moose. Caribou look more deerish. I saw their stuffed heads (ugh !!) at the hotel.

Tomorrow starts an 8 to 10 day stretch where there will be no stores, civilization, etc. It will be back in the snow. Let's see how it goes. Signing off from this wonderful cabin.







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