Trail Journal

Date: August 6 2000
Trail Day: 67
Miles Today: 16
Location: Near Auto Road
Section Mile: AT 321
ECT Mile: 1002

Red letter day today. Crossed the first 1000 mile mark. Aimed for a 19 mile day, managed a 16. The 19 looked possible till the trail made a sharp descent into Pinkham notch. It was extremely slow going. There is a visitor's center here with all kinds of tourists and "cool" people wearing bandanas, carrying back packs etc but none of them knew where the AT was. I wonder what they were all doing.

Saw no thru-hikers today. Either there were none or they were clean shaven or they were slack-packing. I think about half the thru-hikers are slack packing this and the Maine section.

The views 1 2 3 here are excellent. Most of the trail runs on the ridges. The layout is similar to what I saw in Mt. Logan, where the range comes to an end to the South. Here the end is not as abrupt because the mountains are very high. The weather has been great today also. I count myself lucky to have such good weather in the Whites. Tomorrow I head to Mt. Washington and hike a 14 mile section that is above the tree line. I am also feeling much better than yesterday.

Last night I also met Class 5 who is hiking from Florida to Cap Gaspe. He and his brother started together, but his brother found a girl friend along the way and dropped out. Class 5 was very upset. The troubles women cause :-)

Other thru-hikers that I have met recently are No Fuel yesterday and Hokie Flash 3 days ago. No Fuel is originally from India. I had heard of him from Buckeye Bob with whom I had summitted Katahdin. Also heard about him from Sea Otter. No Fuel got his name because he started the AT but forgot to get fuel.

Hokie Flash is another fast hiker aiming to complete in 94 days. Surprisingly, it is the fast hikers like him and Sea Otter with whom I have had the most extensive conversations.

When I first started the AT most northbound thru-hikers I met were either very fast or started very early. The crowd seems to be now coming in - March and April starters.

I am in my tarp again tonight. I think I am getting the hang of this. I also weighed my pack - 23 lbs with 3 days of food and a little water. Quite good.

Date: August 7 2000
Trail Day: 68
Miles Today: 13
Location: Lakes of the Clouds Hut
Section Mile: AT 334
ECT Mile: 1015

I wrote my journal too soon last night. As soon as I was done it started drizzling. After I was done with dinner and went to sleep it started raining. In the middle of the night I realized that my sleeping bag was getting wet. Not a good sleep. I got up in the morning and looked over my tarp set-up. Found some obvious errors which I need to rectify the next time.

The day started out fairly easily. I climbed on to the ridge quite easily but as I kept gaining altitude it started to fog up and it started raining. Its very rocky once it gets to the top. About 14 miles is above the tree line including Mt. Washington. Progress then became horribly slow. There was a place where I took a bad fall. There were a group of 4 guys coming the oppposite way, it broke my cocentration and I ended up face down, backpack on top. The guys helped me up. I tried walking a few steps but the pain was quite bad in my knee. I then had to sit down for 10 minutes or so. I cheered myself up with some cream cookies. The pain then went away and I continued. The climb up Washington was very slow. It was extremely windy and foggy. I took a shot here. Visibility was barely 10 ft or so and my right lens of my glasses would fog up constantly. Got to the summit (elevation about 6300 ft). It was horrible weatherwise and I was just eager to get the summit behind me. I wont be reaching this altitude till I enter the Smokies in Georgia.

There was a visitors center. I bought 3 sandwiches and 2 muffins and wolfed them down. The place closed a few minutes after I had finished. I looked outside at the bad weather and almost felt bad for myself for having to head out again.

The hike after that was actually easier and I got to a hut. The huts here have a work for stay option for thru-hikers, but they were filled. They allowed me to sleep in the dining room for 6 $ and gave me left over food - I was glad. Nomad showed up about an hour after I did. He had taken a 0 day in Gorham so we are hiking together again.

Today was a short mileage day but the mileage was tough. I dont think I will be able to cross 20 again till I get beyond Mt. Mousalake.

Date: August 8 2000
Trail Day: 69
Miles Today: 12
Location: Johnson Motel, Twin Mountains
Section Mile: AT 346
ECT Mile: 1027

A fairly easy and short day today. We were sleeping in the dining room of the hut and had to get up when they started setting up the table for breakfast. I thus got an early start. Towards the end I heard the clink of hiking poles and saw Nomad come down the trail. He can almost run downhill. He had waited for me at the Mitzpak hut but I had gone by without stopping. This is quite normal for me. I go through a lot of towns and shelters without stopping.

We got to US 302 together and got a ride from a young couple. They actually came back to pick us up. It was cramped in the car with us and two dogs but we made to the AMC hostel somehow. They also gave us a box of blueberries - delicious. The hostel was closed and we met a lady who was headed to Twin Mountain. She was with her husband and the car was packed. We squeezed in somehow and rode to Twin Mountain. We got to a hotel and got a room. The manager agreed to drop us off at the trail tomorrow. We bathed, got beer and had pizza in a restaurant. Nomad told me about his book - very interesting. I hope it does very well.

Date: August 9 2000
Trail Day: 70
Miles Today: 16
Location: Near Galehead Hut
Section Mile: AT 362
ECT Mile: 1045

Mike the motel owner/manager gave us a ride to a breakfast place. Nice but slightly expensive. I had eggs benedict. He then gave us a ride to the trail. The hike was fairly easy. It had rained last night so it was wet and boggy everywhere. However it was not slippery so we flew through most of the flat sections. The climbs were tiring but not bad. I am almost tempted to say that the trail is getting easier. Most of the big hills are now out of the way. In a couple of days we will cross Mt. Mousalake after which the trail should become easier. The past ten days or so have been very difficult.

Met Warren Doyle. He is kind of an AT legend. This is his 12th thru hike. He held the record for the fastest AT hike in 1973. I think it was around 60 days. Quite amazing. Meeting people like him and Nimblewill Nomad is quite inspiring. I hiked with renewed vigor after meeting Warren.

We got to the Gale head hut but could not get get work for stay. They gave us some soup and soft drinks. We spent a couple of hours there. Met Roots and Tennessee - thru hiking north. Roots (a female) started out in Virginia on a 2 day hike and just kept on going. She is a little short on cash and does work for stay wherever possible. I told her of Horsefeather Inn in Oquossuc where they were looking for hikers to do some chores. Sometime later Digger showed up. I first met Digger in Gorham and have seen him several times since. He is from Israel and is hiking till September after which he will go to California for a while.

Digger, Nomad and I then headed out to find a camping spot. The AMC has set up rules that you cannot camp a quarter mile near a hut, road or trail. I think it is a way of making sure that everyone has to stay in a hut and they can rake in the money. They charge 60$ for food and a bunk bed. They are always full. The food I have eaten is good by back packer standards (we will eat just about anything), but for the price the visitors pay it is horrible. Apparently AMC still makes a loss. With a monopoly in such a prime tourist area, how they fail to make a profit is beyond me. I can only conclude that either a good chunk of the money is being swindled or it is being managed extremely poorly. I am willing to bet a private company would be raking it in.

Anyway, we found a place to set up camp in the middle of a dense pine stand. Digger decided to continue on to the next shelter. I am in my tarp again but laid out much better. If it rains tonight and I remain dry I will know for sure.

Date: August 10 2000
Trail Day: 71
Miles Today: 11
Location: Cascade Lodge, North Woodstock
Section Mile: AT 373
ECT Mile: 1056

It rained last night and my sleeping bag stayed dry. My tarp techniques are certainly improving. Also got a bunch of slugs on my tarp and bags. Packed up and started a short hike to US 3. The trail was quite tough again today. First a sharp climb and descent on Mt. Lafayette. On the way up hikers heading the other way told me that it was windy enough to blow you over. Its difficult to relate to such stuff when you are below tree line and everything is very peaceful. But as I kept climbing, the wind was indeed strong enough to knock me in some places. Its kind of riding a motorcycle in the wind - you lean into the wind, except here its in gusts and you almost fall over when the wind lets up.

Once on the summit the trail became fairly level and easy to walk. It ran the ridge till Mt. Lincoln before dropping into Franconia notch. Most of the day the visibility was poor - barely 20 feet. My glasses (only one side for some reason) collected enough condensation to get blown away in droplets. Near Mt. Lincoln it cleared up some and I managed to get some shots 1 2. Then the trail dropped below tree line and it was a different world all together.

It was then a long steady climb down to the notch. Even though today was a short day I had had enough. Got to US 3 and got a ride from a young couple in their early 20's. The girl was very pretty and had piercings all over her face. I told them about my hike and they said "Super cool" about four times. They dropped me off at the Intersection with I-93 as they did not know much about North Woodstock. I obtained directions and started begging for a ride again. Got one after a long time and got to Cascade Lodge. Did laundry and had dinner. Over 3-4 hours I ate/drank - one 2 scoop banana split, 1 20 oz prime rib with potatoes, 4 Coor beers, 3 peaches and a 3 scoop banana split.

Date: August 11 2000
Trail Day: 72
Miles Today: 14
Location: Near Gordon Pond
Section Mile: AT 387
ECT Mile: 1070

Because of the late night yesterday, I could not get up early. Bill, the owner of the place gave us a ride at 8 AM to the trail. The first 3 miles were OK then I started to feel extremely sluggish and lazy. I took a nap in a pine stand. Met Grits at this time. He is an older gentleman and started mid April - making good time. Also took a short break at the Lonesome Lake Hill. I seem to have these very down days every 7-10 days.

Beyond the 3 miles it was all sheer will power. For some strange reason, I met the most encouraging and friendliest people today. There was a couple with a son and dog. They were so encouraging that I felt a morale boost. I also met Lab rat and another gentleman who urged me on.

About noon, Nature Boy whom I had met in N. Woodstock and had started the hike about 1-2 miles behind my point passed me by. He asked me if I was doing OK. I think it shows on my face.

Also met a mother and son day or section hiking who talked to me and were a shot in the arm. I managed my alloted 13-14 miles and was deciding whether to head into Gordon Pond (which was another mile down the trail) or stay at a brook. There were several places suitable for a tent. I looked at the skies - it was threatening rain and I had heard thunder for several hours. I was also miserable and tired so decided to set up camp.

Filled up water and started to cook. Half way thru it started to rain, so I set up my tarp. Then it poured so I turned off the stove, set my food near the tarp, and crawled into my sleeping bag.

I think a description of a tarp shelter is in order here. Tarps are extremely light weight and hence easy to carry but they are tight as a coffin. Once you are in it you have to stay there. You even have to be careful how you roll around or you may change the configuration enough to let water into your sleeping bag. I lay down without eating hoping the rain would let up so I could eat - no luck. It was a downpour. So I squirmed around on my stomach and ate my food - Ramen noodles with Sardines.

Date: August 12 2000
Trail Day: 73
Miles Today: 12
Location: Glen Cliff
Section Mile: AT 399
ECT Mile: 1082

I was quite sure I would get drenched during the night. Morning came and I was still reasonably dry - I think I am getting good at this tarp stuff. I had cooked my noodles in a small depression and it was now filled with water. I got the stove out of the water and packed. Its very cumbersome packing up after a rain.

Today was the very opposite of yesterday. I started the hike in low spirits (continuation of yesterday). After a time I checked the map and realized I was 1-2 miles ahead of where I had expected. This was in slightly more than an hour.

Started the climb up Mousalake. It reminded me of the trail up Mt. Nicole Albert. It ran along side a cascade. The trail was steep, but because the cascades were so beautiful I did not realize the exertion. I reached the ridge fairly quickly and headed to the summit.

At the summit there was a large group that said - "You must be a thru-hiker". I said yes and they plowed me with all kinds of food. They were a very generous and friendly group - true angels. I also got a shot of me at the peak. This is a significant point for us south bounders - We have cleared the toughest 200 miles of the AT. I was extremely happy.

The trail down was gentle. I practically ran down 4-5 miles downhill. At a certain angle and good friction you can run down slopes. At slightly higher angles and poor traction you can end up on your face. I flew down to NH 25 and headed into Glencliff and the hostel there.

I saw Nomad again there. I showered and did laundry. Nomad and I got a ride into Warren and bought pizza and beer. This is a nice hostel run by an ex-hiker - very friendly.